It is said to be over 2300 years old. It’s a majestic fort though only a few of its buildings remain today.

What does remain and a big draw are the 2nd -3rd century AD Buddhist caves located at one end of the Fort. Buddhism flourished in these parts in ancient times. These were carved when Junagadh was the capital of the Kshatrapa rulers.

There are three major Buddhist cave groups here. The other two being the Baba Pyaare and Khapra Kodiya Caves.

These monastic caves are carved out of rock. Imagine the dedication and skill of a Buddhist monk armed with primitive instruments and piety carving and cutting his way down into the mountain, creating a piece of wonder in the process!

These caves have influence of Satvahana ( a 1st century BCE to 2nd century AD empire based in the Deccan) architecture with combination of Graeco- Scythian style.

According to ASI “The cave group is in three tiers, with all members of each galleries shown in semi-relief, but only two storeys having regular floors.

They were built for meditation and in such a way that they were airy and well-lit

The upper floor has a deep tank, covered on three sides with verandahs.

It’s the lower floor which shows signs of the spectacular workmanship with exquisite pillars and remnants of carving on the walls

Carved pillar capitals

These are carved from the rock!!

These caves have an assembly hall and cell for meditation.

A window

in the walls on the north-east and west sides are stone bench-recesses, divided into long compartments

Archival photo 1900 British Library Curzon Collection.

Remnants of carvings

Holes in the pillars for holding mashals for light

Water bodies and rain water collection

Rain water harvesting seems to have been a very important aspect of their lives and obviously survival

Carved Pillar bases

In the ‘Report on the Antiquities of Kathiawad and Kachh of 1874-75’, Burgess wrote, “The Uparkot or upper fort of Junagadh, is probably a rich mine of antiquities. It seems to have been the citadel of the old city, where the lieutenants of the great Asoka, and still later, of the Gupta kings lived…About the first time I visited Junagadh in 1869, some rock-cut apartments were discovered at the bottom of a descent on the north of the Jami Masjid. They are of considerable interest, for, though much defaced, they manifest a high style of art. Few bases, for examples, could be found anywhere to excel in beauty of design and richness of carvings those of the six pillars in the lower hall.”

Gallery:

The first day we went to the Tiger reserve and were lucky to spend a good two hours watching ST3 relax and roll around in the grass.

The next day we left early in the morning for Bhangarh. Its not a long distance away but the roads are terrible. They are full of potholes and in places the metal tar has not been replaced after the rains. Though there was material on the sides for repair but the work hadn’t started.

The drive however was very scenic because of the beautiful women in all the glorious colours of Rajasthan and greenery around.

The fort of Ajabgarh falls on the way from Sariska to Bhangarh. This fort had been built by Ajab Singh, the son of Madho Singh. Madho Singh was the brother of Akbar’s trusted general  Raja Man Singh.

The gates were very impressive:

As we drove in it was obvious that we were in a medieval village with old structures and chatris.

Some of the old havelis

This must have been built when Ajabgarh was still a thriving capital of Raja Ajab Singh by his courtiers

Old door open new dreams

New hopes and new beginnings

Alongside the mountains ran a huge lake making the location even more strategic as water is a matetr of concern in Rajasthan.

After driving through the village we could see the fort perched on a hill very clearly but could find no way up to it. This 17th c fort is built in the Indo-Persian style of architecture of stone and plaster.

It was very hot and at first look the hill seemed steep. We still had to go to Bhangarh so decided to leave the exploration for another day. A few photos and we move on.

The temple attached to the fort looked inviting but we moved on.

Round the bend from the fort was a dragah and on a hot day its bright whiteness looked very alluring. We decided to go in and recite the fatiha.

This is the dargah of hazrat Kapoor Shah Baba. The mujawir had no idea of his history but it is very well maintained. He said the saint was from Akbar’s era but a bit of research reveals that he came much later. It was built in the 19th century so safe to assume that he must have lived in that era.

This dargah commands a majestic view of the fort and mountains around.

This buffalo on the road with the branches sticking out just looked very cute to me.

Off to see some more ruins!

(Alwar to Ajabgarh is 85 km)