Mehrauli – Rana Safvi

Baoli in Qutub saheb ki dargah in Mehrauli

ranasafvi — Wed, 16 May 2018 19:13:28 +0000

In 2014 while researching for Where Stones Speak the blessings of Qutub Sahab & luck helped us and Syed Mohammad Qasim Asif Khan Dehlvi and I were able to go into Qutub Sahab ki baoli and explore it. Unfortunately it’s in a bad shape : a water body which could supply water to entire Mehrauli lies neglected

A walk through Lal Kot, in Mehrauli : DelhiDarshan

ranasafvi — Sat, 16 Jan 2016 13:16:50 +0000

A historical walk in Sanjay Van tracing the ancient Kingdom of Tomars and PrithviRaj Chauhan to Mehrauli in medieval times with Asif Dehlvi’s Delhi Karavan

Our walk started From the Yog Maya Temple

Yogmaya Temple also known as Jogmaya temple, is an ancient temple dedicated to Goddess Yogmaya, the sister of Lord Krishna, and situated in Mehrauli, New Delhi, very close to the tomb of Adham Khan and Qutb complex. It is widely believed to be one of the five surviving temples from the Mahabharata period in Delhi and was made by Yudhistra .

In the present shape the temple was built by Seth Sidhu Mal of Chandni Chowk in 1827.

The present day entrance to the Temple.

Panditji doing poona

In his “Reminiscences of Imperial Delhi”, Thomas Metcalfe the Governor General’s Agent in Delhi, ( 1844) writes:

“[The shrine of Jog Maya near the Qutb Minar. Built during the reign of Akbar II (r.1806-37) at the site of an ancient temple, the Jogmaya temple is one of the most important Hindu shrines in the city, but no trace of the original survives.]

The Shrine of Jog (‘Worship’) Maya (‘Wealth, also a name for Luchmee the goddess of wealth’) at the Kootoob dedicated to Devee an Hindoo goddess is said to have been from time immemorial the site of idolatrous worship. The two temples represented were built, the one by Rana (‘King- Chief’) Peertee or Pritvy Raj (‘Peertee or Pritvy Raj: Lord of the Earth’), and the other by his chief almoner. Rana Peertee called also Rae (‘King’) Pittorah, the latter a corruption without any meaning, was the King of Ajmere and Indra (‘God of Elements’) Put (‘Town or City’) the ancient Hindoo city of Dehly, the name being derived from Delu or Dehlu, the chief Zumundar or land proprietor of the place.”

His diary has 130 paintings by one, Mazhar Khan. This is of the temple as it existed then.( I had the opportunity to see an exhibition of this collection recently in Delhi and took photographs of the prints.)

We were accompanied by Mr K K Mohammed ( Ex Director ASI) and Stella Dupius ( writer of Yogini Temples in India)

The karavan enters Sanjay Van where Lal Kot ( Red Fort ) was once situated. The fort was built by Anangpal Tomar around 1050 A.D

main akeila hi chala tha jaanib‘e manzil magar

log saath aate gaye aur karvaan banta gaya

I started the journey to my destination alone, but

People kept flocking and the caravan was formed

A view of the Qutb Minar from the ruins of lal Kot

This was once a water reservoir or Anang Tal built byAnangpal Tomar

The ASI has done extensive excavations in the area and this is the remains of a house : rooms

“lal Kot , the citadel of the Tomar Rajput king Anangpal, is now survived by its stone build ramparts and remains of a moat available only at very few places; same is the case with dressed quartzite veneering and semi-circular bastions. Another wall, which is a later construction, is provided with massive towers and is pierced by several gates, known as Ghazni, Sohan and Ranjit Gates. Excavations have shown that the original citadel of Lal Kot was oblong in plan and the high stone walls to its west which enlarge the original enclosure and are usually regarded as its area are a later construction. A study of excavated remains have shown sequence of two successive periods, i.e., Rajput and early Sultanate periods. A palatial structure was found together with other structures. Prithviraja III, popularly known by the name of Rai Pithora, had extended the Lal Kot by erecting massive stone ramparts around it. The new enlarged city had Lal Kot at its south-west base, which is known by the name of Qila Rai Pirhora, the so called First City of Delhi. According to Timur, the rubble built ramparts were pierced by thirteen gates, out of which Hauz Rani, Barka and Budaun Gates are still extant.”

(source ASI)

The wall runs an impressive course . It reminded me of Hadrian’s wall in U.K. Of course that was much better preserved, marked and marketed.

the walls are constructed from random rubble internally but with a facing of quartzite blocks. there are rounded bastions at regular intervals.the stone was cut so accurately, writes Lucy Peck, that it allowed precise alignment in a system that did not use mortar, although the surface of the blocks was not smooth.

In front of one of the ramparts of the Citadel of Lal Kot

The tomb of Haji Rozbih and Bibi ( said to be a female relative of PrithviRaj Chauhan who became a disciple of Haji Roz )
Haji Roz is said to be the first Sufi saint to enter Delhi. His grave is very well hidden and we were led to it by Syed Mohammed Qasim and Asif Dehlvi .

Rahmat Miyan , the mojavir of the Dargah who told us the history of the place too. Winter or summers he sleeps here and safeguards the area. According to him The Bibi is PrithviRaj Chauhan’s daughter, Bela . But there is no verification of this by any other historical source that i could find. If anyone does , please share.

kaun hai jo nahiin hai haajat-mand

kis kii haajat ravaa’n kare koi

Who in this world has no need?

Whose prayer achieve acceptance?

It is called Bhima’s ( The Mahabharat hero) Chitanki . Bhima was supposed to have the strength of an elephant so this huge stone was like a chitanki or 1/16th of a seer ( chhitank bhar) for him.
Nobody knows how or why this stone came here.
It reminded me of Krishna’s butterball in Mahabalipuram
And yes this area has it all. Starts with the temple and ends in the Dargah

The Eidgaah

The entrance to Lal Kot from near Adham Khan’s tomb.

Adham Khan’s Tomb
According to R V Smith , Adham Khan’s tomb was made by Akbar on the pattern of The Dome Of The Rock .
It is certainly different from the typical Afghan and Mughal structures.
from Metcalfe’s Reminisces

“The tomb of Udhum Khan, who having assassinated his foster brother, (see page ..[f.45v]) attempted also the life of the Emperor Ackbur the Great by whose orders he was thrown from the battlement of the palace.

[The Tomb of Adham Khan near the Qutb Minar. This tomb was built by the Emperor Akbar (r.1556-1605) in 1526 for Maham Anga, his wet nurse, and her son, Adham Khan, a nobleman and general in Akbar’s army, who was executed on the Emperor’s orders for committing murder. Khan’s mother passed away from grief soon after. Around the central chamber is an arcaded verandah, above which rises the corona of the dome in which there are several passages, hence the tomb is also known as ‘Bhul-Bhulaiyan’ or labyrinth. It is one of the last in the Lodhi style tombs.]
Inscribed: naqsha-i maqbara-i Adham dar Qutb.
The name is generally pronounced so like your Adam, that new arrivals are sometimes made to believe that the building is really the Tomb of our common Progenitor.
[The Tomb of Shaikh ‘Abdul Haq Dihlavi near the Qutb Minar, on the bank of the Hauz-i-shamsi. ‘Abdul Haq Dihlavi, born in 1551, was a writer in Arabic and Persian, who won favour from both Mughal Emperors, Jahangir (r.1605-28) and Shah Jahan (r.1628-58). He died in 1642. ]

Inscribed: maqbara-i Shah ‘Abd al-Haqq Dihlavi.

The Tomb of Shaikh (‘Tribe; Caste’) Ubdool Huq(‘Slave of God’) Dehlevee (‘Of Dehly’). “

From Metcalfe’s diary

It is worth noting that most Mughal buildings had the 6 sided star . This according to Mr k.K. Mohammed is not derived from the Star of David but is the Indian Shiv Shakti symbol adopted by the Indian artisans. It was developed in India in the Lodi period and continued till early part of Akbar’s reign

A mother or grandmother feeding her child. Just as perhaps Maham Anga may have fed the young Akbar and his foster brother, her son, Adham Khan.

apnii qabr mein tanhaa aaj tak gayaa hai kaun
daftar-e-amal ‘aamir’ saath saath jaataa hai

Who has ever gone alone to the grave?
‘Amir ‘ the book of deeds also goes with one.

The banda bahadur Gurudwara, Mehrauli
http://www.thesikhencyclopedia.com/historic-gurdwaras-outside-punjab/banda-bahadur-gurudwara-new-delhi

A view from the jaali on the ladies side into the dargah of Hazrat Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki.
Metcalfe writes :

Khvaja Qutb al-Din Bakhtyar Kaki from Ush, who was known as Qutb-Sahib from his residence near the Qutb Minar, went to India with the earliest Muslim invaders and became a disciple of Khvaja Mu’in al-Din Chishti of Ajmer. He died in 1236 and was buried in a simple grave at Mehrauli. The beautification of the tomb did not apparently begin until the 16th century, but the tomb itself remained an open enclosure. In this drawing, it is shown surrounded by a simple balustrade with a velvet canopy over it. To the left is part of the wall of coloured floral tiles traditionally associated with Aurangzeb. The surrounding enclosing wall of marble ‘jalis’, with marble gates, was built by Farrukhsiyar in 1713.

Watercolour of a view of the shrine of Qutb-Sahib at Mehrauli by the Delhi artist Muhammad Yusuf (fl.c.1845-1875), c.1845. Inscribed in Persian in red paint: (above) ‘naqsha darga-i Hazrat Qutb al-Aqtab’; (below) ”amal ‘abdihi Muhammad Yusuf ‘afa Allah ‘anhu.‘”

The inner gate to the shrine

Hijro’n ki khanqaah, Mehrauli

ranasafvi — Sat, 16 Jan 2016 12:54:56 +0000

Eunuchs are historically males who are castrated (without their consent) so that they can perform a specific social function. This function normally was guarding the harem, be in service to the rulers and noblemen, work in administrative capacity and even become treble singers.

Except for the last, the reason why eunuchs were preferred for the the other services was that they were no threat to the women of the harem, and since they had no chance of marraige or having children it was presumed they would have less reason to be corrupt.

Some of them assumed great positions of authority but most of them lived on the fringes of society.

In modern day India they are relegated to the fringes and eke out a living by singing and dancing at childbirth and sometimes weddings. Many are seen begging at traffic signals and generally threatening to invoke a curse if they do not get alms.

So it was was a real pleasure to find this beautiful khanqaah ( a spiritual retreat) for eunuchs or hijras as they are called in India.

This is an oasis of solitude in the busy streets of Mehrauli village near Jahaz Mahal. It is kept locked and is opened on request.

An interesting thing is the low doorway. We were told it is so everyone enters the khanqaah with a bowed head.

zindagii baap kii maanind sazaa detii hai
rahm-dil maa kii tarah maut bachaane aayii

“Life punishes you like a strict father

Death came as a as a saviour like a merciful mother”

Sufi saints have always been known for their inclusiveness, humanity and healing touch.

It is said that Sufi saint Hazrat Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki had made one oF the eunuchs in his times his sister. He fondly called her Aapa.

This place was given to them by the saint. The prominent green grave is where she is buried.

Though officially it belongs to the eunuchs at Turkman Gate , Old Delhi and its under their maintenance , they come only on festivals to offer tribute and celebrate and hold langars ( dustribute free food) .

The 50 graves are each kept in pristine condition by Shripal a gujar whose family has been the traditional caretakers of this khanqaah.

Tamanna dard e dil ki ho to kar khidmat faqeeron ki,
Nahi milta ye gohar badshahon kay khazeeno mein
If you desire true solace, then serve the mendicants
You will not find this jewel in the king’s treasure house

He told me he comes every morning with his children to do service here of cleaning and burning the chiragh at night. Since traditionally in India hijras are associated with festivities during chilbirth that no prayer for children goes unanswered here.

dil kaa gila falak kii shikaayat yahaan nahiin
vo mehrbaan nahiin to koi mehrbaan nahiin

No laments of the heart, no complaints work here
If He doesnot shower mercy on you, no one else will

Considering the decay in most of the medieval buildings i have seen in Delhi, this beautiful mihrab tells the tale of the loving care this khanqaah gets.

The history, culture and architecture across India portrays tolerance, irrespective of gender and religion. The need of the hour is to reinstill for all citizens, including those of the LGBT community in India, the same respect and space that was enjoyed in the past.

This article appeared in Pragati Magazine

http://pragati.nationalinterest.in/2014/02/hijron-ki-khanqaah/

Sair e Gul Farosha’n

ranasafvi — Wed, 18 Nov 2015 04:19:39 +0000

Photo by Syed Mohammad Qasim

Sair e Gul Farosha’n
Traditional Songs
RasoolAllah kyun kharosha’n hai
Aaj kya Sair e Gul Farosha’n hai?
Baheliyon yakko’n ka ek taata hai
Jis ko dekho woh Qutub jaata hai

Bhai Jaggu hai sar par dukan
Jaake Mehrauli mein bechega paan
Miyan Gafoor bhi iss mele par
Laaye hain saara kuna thele par

Har ek dukan par bhara hai maal
Mithaiyon ke chun rahe hain thaal
Nashpati anaar aur amrud
Kahin kadhai mein chadha hai doodh

Bechta hai koi budhiya ke baal
Sev besan ke aur chane ki dal
Kaba e sskh bhun rahe hain kahin
Log qawwali sun rahe hain kahin

Naach gaana har ek makan mein hain
Itr ki phooiyyein har ek kaan mein hain
Vaam par hain Nawab moote se
Nai pakad li unhone kothe se

Aaye bazar mein Girdhari Lal
Tond itni hai ke dushvaar sambhal
Raees hain yeh haal hain palle
Kharidte hain yeh angoothi challe

Hansi mazaq ka ajab hai taur
Chal raha hai sharab e nab ka daur
Botal ek aur aane waali hai
Nawab Putli gane waali hai

https://t.co/C5hvDpmJfS

Where Stones Speak Book review in Synergy Online

ranasafvi — Tue, 06 Oct 2015 17:05:14 +0000

Where Stones Speak : Historical Trails in Mehrauli, the First City of Delhi

By Rana Safvi

BEFORE

AFTER

“Sense how
Even the smooth stones ache
With stories of their own
In the shuddering light of day.”
― Scott Hastie

‘The stones of ancient cities speak only to a chosen few. Rana Safvi is for the city of Delhi what, in another age, Ibn Hayyan was for Andalusia and Pachymeres was for Constantinople.’ – Rakhshanda Jalil

Stone-cutters fighting time with marble, you fore defeated
Challengers of oblivion
Eat cynical earnings, knowing rock splits, records fall down,
The square-limbed Roman letters
Scale in the thaws, wear in the rain. The poet as well
Builds his monument mockingly;
For man will be blotted out, the blithe earth die, the brave sun
Die blind and blacken to the heart:
Yet stones have stood for a thousand years, and pained thoughts found
The honey of peace in old poems.”
― Robinson Jeffers, Selected Poems

And so Mehrauli is the oldest of Delhi’s seven cities. Once the thriving capital of the Tomar and Chauhan dynasties and the Dar ul Khilafat of the slave dynasty, today it lies forgotten. Its congested lanes and crumbling ruins are lost in a mishmash of history and modernity, the living and the dead rubbing shoulders with each other.

Blending stirring Urdu couplets with haunting visuals, author Rana Safvi walks us through the oldest of Delhis, describing the religious diversity of Mehrauli’s monuments: from the rocky Qila Rai Pithaura to the dargah of Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki, from Zafar Mahal, the last great monument built by the Mughals, to the holy waters of the Hauz e Shamsi; each structure a living memory of an era dissolved in history.

Embellished with stories and legends of a bygone era, and soaked in the sights and sounds of Sufi dargahs, mosques, temples, churches, gurudwaras and Buddhist monasteries, Where Stones Speak effortlessly reveals a little known, bewitching Mehrauli.
Rana Safvi is a historian with a deep love for verse and a passion for the culture and heritage of the Indian subcontinent. She combines her enthusiasm for both in her writing. She runs a popular blog, ‘Hazrat e Dilli’, which talks about Delhi’s culture, food, heritage and age-old traditions. She is founder and moderator of #Shair on Twitter, a forum that has revived popular interest in Urdu poetry in a major way.

Rana is a postgraduate in History from Aligarh Muslim University. She lives in Delhi with her family.

Hogi iss dher imaarat ki kahaani kuchh tau
Dhundh alfaz ke malbe mein maa’ini kuchh tau

Surely a story behind these ruins, somewhere
Search the debris of words, the meaning in there, somehwre
(Shahpur Rasool)

http://thesynergyonline.com/bookreview.htm

Where Stones Speak Book Review in The Statesman

ranasafvi — Tue, 06 Oct 2015 16:59:51 +0000

Mehrauli reflects India’s diversity

PTI

New Delhi, | 04 October, 2015 http://www.thestatesman.com/news/features/mehrauli-reflects-india-s-diversity/94665.html

image: http://www.thestatesman.com/cms/gall_content/2015/10/

(Facebook)

A church that wears the look of a temple and a mosque too, a festival that dates back to the Mughal rule and numerous monuments that have stories to tell.

A new book ‘Where Stones Speak‘ by historian Rana Safvi tells many little known stories associated with monuments around Mehrauli, the first and also the oldest of the seven cities that make modern day Delhi.

The author takes the reader through the narrow, congested lanes of Mehrauli, describing the religious diversity of its monuments, from the rocky Qula Rai Pithoura to the Dargah of Sufi saint Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki and the ancient Yogmaya temple, telling stories associated with these.

Mehrauli is home to India’s ancient pluralistic and multicultural tradition. It is here that the Mughal emperors offered tribute to the Yogmaya temple and the dargah of Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki.

Also befitting is the St. John’s church built on the ruins of a Mughal fort- the structure incorporates the architectural features of a mosque and a temple, truly symbolising the syncretic culture of Mehrauli and India, the author says.

Nothing epitomises the multicultural flavour of Delhi as the ‘Phool Walo’n Ki Sair‘ or ‘Sair e Gul Farosha’n‘, the procession of flower sellers that is currently held in October after the monsoons.

It began when in fulfilment of her vow Mumtaz Mahal Begum, wife of Akbr Shah II (1808-1837) organised seven days of merry making and celebrations when her exiled son Mirza Jahangir was allowed back in Delhi by the British. Hindus and Muslims joined the festivities and on public demand the emperor decided it would henceforth be an annual affair. Akbar Shah also offered a ‘pankha’ (a fan made of flowers) at the nearby Yogmaya temple.

Till the Mughals ruled, this festival was celebrated with great pomp and show. It is held even now and pankhas are offered on behalf of President of India and the Lt. Governor of Delhi, the book says. The festival was stopped for some years, but later restored, the author says.

The appointment of Razia was a radical step in those days when women were confined to the harem alone. But Sultan Iltutmush, though a far-sighted visionary, had not taken into account the aversion that the nobles had in being ruled by a women and her brother Ruknuddin was on the throne.

However Razia was made of sterner stuff, she presented herself to the peole from the terrace with her grievance.

People of Delhi then proclaimed Razia as the new Sultan.

This was one of the first instances of a popular vote of sorts because people were given a chance to crown their monarch, the author says.

However, Sultan Razia, though hailed as a great monarch, was not allowed to reign for long and was removed and later killed. She was known as Sultan Razia and not as Razia Sultan as is commonly written. She rejected the feminine Razia Sultan, a weak title, shrugged off her feminine clothes and donned the robes, tunic and turban of a man. Sultan Razia also stopped wearing a veil, the author says.

The original founder of Delhi probably chose the rocky Aravali hills in Mehrauli as his headquarters, for the strategic and military advantages it offered. “Thus it was necessity rather than caprice on part of the rulers, which required the shifting of Delhi to either, say near the water source to accommodate a growing population or to build a strong defence, the book says. This led to Delhi being built several times over- as many as fourteen, it says.

The author also suggests an itinerary for those who want to take a look at the monuments in Mehrauli and its monuments.

Where Stones Speak book Review in The First mail

ranasafvi — Tue, 06 Oct 2015 16:55:26 +0000

Mehrauli: Monuments that speak of India’s multiculturalism

A church that wears looks of a temple and a mosque too, a festival that dates back to the Mughal rule and numerous monuments that have stories to tell.

A new book ‘Where Stones Speak’ by historian Rana Safvi tells many little known stories associated with monuments around Mehrauli, the first and also the oldest of the seven cities that make modern day Delhi.

Mehrauli is home to India’s ancient pluralistic and multicultural tradition. It is here that the Mughar emperors offered tribute to the Yogmaya temple and the dargah of Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki.

Nothing epitomises the multicultural flavour of Delhi as the ‘Phool Walo’n Ki Sair’ or ‘Sair e Gul Farosha’n’, the procession of flower sellers that is currently held in October after the monsoons.

Till the Mughals ruled, this festival was celebrated with great pomp and show. It is held even now and pankhas are offered on behalf of President of India and the Lt. Governor of Delhi, the book says. The festival was stopped for some years, but later restored, the author says.

However Razia was made of sterner stuff, she presented herself to the peole from the terrace with her grievance.

People of Delhi then proclaimed Razia as the new Sultan.

This was one of the first instances of a popular vote of sorts because people were given a chance to crown their monarch, the author says.

The author also suggests an itinerary for those who want to take a look at the monuments in Mehrauli and its monuments.

– See more at: http://www.thefirstmail.in/news/news-details/85220-mehrauli_monuments_that_speak_of_indias_multiculturalism#sthash.OXhAJIPs.dpuf

Where Stones Speak in Outlook Hindi

ranasafvi — Tue, 06 Oct 2015 16:52:19 +0000

गंगा-जमुनी तहजीब बयां करते महरौली के पत्‍थर

OCT 04 , 2015

एजेंसी

amazon.in

“एक गिरजाघर है जो मंदिर सा दिखता है… और मस्जिद सा भी। एक त्यौहार है जो मुगलों के दौर से चला आ रहा है… जी हां , महरौली का हर पत्थर कुछ बोलता है और हिंदुस्तान की नायाब गंगा-जमुनी तहजीब के तराने सुनाता है। ”

दिल्ली के बसने का सिलसिला महरौली से शुरू हुआ था और राना सफवी की नई किताब व्हेयर स्टोन्स स्पीक दिल्ली के इसी सबसे पुराने शहर की एेतिहासिक इमारतों से जुड़ी कई भूली बिसरी कहानियों से हमें रूबरू कराती है।

राष्ट्रीय राजधानी के सबसे लोकप्रिय स्मारकों में शामिल कुतुब परिसर की मस्जिद की दूसरी मंजिल के बारे में शायद ही लोगों को मालूम हो कि यह अपने जमाने में औरतों की मस्जिद थी, और इसी मंजिल पर दिल्ली के लोगों ने रूक्नुद्दीन फिरोज शाह को हटा कर रजिया को अपना सुलतान चुना था। महरौली की तंग धूल भरी गलियों से गुजरते हुए राना हमें इन इमारतों की धार्मिक विविधता से रूबरू कराती हैं। इनमें किला राय पिथौरा से खाजा कुत्बुद्दीन बख्तियार काकी और योगमाया मंदिर शामिल हैं और हर इमारत से जुड़ी हजार दास्तानें हैं। मुगल शहंशाहों ने यहां देश की बहुलवादी और बहुसांस्कृतिक परंपराओं को रोशन किया और जहां खाजा कुत्बुद्दीन बख्तियार काकी को खिराज-ए-अकीदत पेश की, वहीं योगमाया मंदिर में अदब से सिर झुकाया। महरौली की इन्हीं गलियों में सेंट जाॅन्स चर्च भी है। एक मुगल किले के खंडहर पर बने इस चर्च मेें मस्जिद और मंदिर दोनों की वास्तुकला साफ झलकती है जो महरौली और भारत की मिली जुली संस्कृति का एक नायाब नमूना है।

बहरहाल, दिल्ली की इस गंगा-जमुनी तहजीब को सबसे अच्छे ढंग से सैर-ए-गुल फरोशां पेश करती है जिसे आम दिल्ली वासी फूल वालों की सैर के नाम से जानते हैं। फूल बेचने वालों की यह सैर अक्तूबर में होती है। इस सैर की अपनी एक कहानी है। अकबर शाह द्वितीय (1808-18370 की पत्नी मुमताज महल बेगम ने अपनी मन्नत पूरा होने पर और ब्रिटिश हुक्मरानों से अपने निर्वासित बेटे मिर्जा जहांगीर की दिल्ली वापसी की इजाजत मिलने के बाद सात दिन का जश्न मनाया था। इस जश्न में हिंदू और मुसलमान सभी जमा हुए और लोगों की मांग पर बादशाह ने इसे हर साल मनाने का फैसला किया। इस मौके पर अकबर शाह ने नजदीक के योगमाया मंदिर पर फूलों का बना एक पंखा भी चढ़ाया था। आज भी यह सैर धूमधाम से आयोजित होती है। अब राष्ट्रपति और दिल्ली के उपराज्यपाल की तरफ से पंखे चढ़ाए जाते हैंं।

महरौली गंगा-जमुनी तहजीब व्हेयर स्टोन्स स्पीक राना सफवी दिल्ली खाजा कुत्बुद्दीन बख्तियार काकी Where Stones Speak Rana Safvi multiculturalism Mehrauli Delhi Khwaja Kutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki

Where Stones Speak in The Hindu Metro Plus

ranasafvi — Tue, 06 Oct 2015 16:49:26 +0000

Stories in stone

September 13, 2015Arts, Culture & Entertainment, Community Involvement / Social Issues, Travel & Tourism

Historian and writer Rana Safvi’s blog, ‘Hazrat-e-Dilli’, is a little corner of the Internet dedicated entirely to the Capital — its new and old architecture, the dizzying variety of food, age-old traditions and much more. Her new book, “Where Stones Speak”, is another tribute to Delhi, and arguably its first city, Mehrauli. Safvi traces Mehrauli’s history through simple words and haunting couplets, takes us through its diverse monuments and weaves facts with storytelling in a way that paints a picture achingly beautiful in its richness and depth.

Excerpts from an interview:

What brought about the idea?

Delhi for us was just a transit point for changing trains to Lucknow or Nainital. Except for a visit to Red Fort and Qutub Minar with a university group I had never visited any of its beautiful monuments. It is only in the past few years when my daughter shifted here that I spent time in Delhi. I started going out for heritage walks with various groups. It was during these that I realised though there was a lot of material it was scattered and quite a lot of it was in Urdu so inaccessible to many. I wanted to write a book on the lines of Hearn’s “Seven Cities of Delhi” but when I reached Mehrauli the first city I realised that it had enough treasures to form a full book on its own. This book happened – I had set out to write something else. I feel it was blessed and willed by Mehrauli’s guardian saint Qutub Sahab.

It’s an ambitious book, one that would require you to go through reams of material. What kind of initial research did you do?

The first thing I did was to shift from Dubai to Delhi NCR as I accessed books for research. I did not want to rely on online resources only. I went through bibliographies of ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) and books written on Delhi. I went to the Urdu Bazaar. Then I bought the books. I feel I became Flipkart’s biggest customer, with books pouring in every week. I have built quite a library now and it’s ongoing. ASI itself has many books on Delhi especially on the Qutub Complex which I went through. Their library and photo section are treasure houses and I got a lot of help from them. There are many Urdu books available. A 1919 book by Bashiruddin Ahmed called ‘Waqi’at-Dar-ul-Hukumat Dehli’ is full of stories and anecdotes.

How difficult was it to find preserved records and materials for the book?

ASI publications are the best source for records and materials. Records of excavations and research done from the time of Sir Alexander Cunningham in Delhi in the latter part of 19th Century are all available with them. Carr Stephen’s 1876 book “Archaeology and Monumental Remains of Delhi” was also invaluable. Many British officers of ASI have written books on Delhi in late 19th and early 20th Century. Maulvi Zafar Hasan’s book, ‘Monuments of Delhi’, published in 1916 for the ASI details all the monuments of Delhi. Many of these are lost to us now. For contemporary history I relied on ‘The History of India, as told by Its Own Historians’ Henry Miers Elliot and John Dowson. Some of the books are now out of print or badly reprinted. I got these from the U.S. where there were second hand sellers.

Delhi’s history is a curious mix of facts and folklore. What kind of balance were you looking to provide in this book?

I have taught history in middle and senior school for many years. I know how bored people get if we just keep presenting fact after fact. I tried to use the same technique I used for my students: tell the story as accurately as I could and make it interesting. I have used anecdotes I found in my reference books as well as a few recounted to me. Wherever they are unsubstantiated by records I have mentioned that too. I have tried to enliven it by using Urdu verses which describe the stunning photographs taken by Syed Mohammad Qasim better than I ever could with my prose. It also embellishes the prose and breaks the monotony of facts. This is a style not used by any other English book on history (at least I haven’t come across it). It has been used in Urdu books though not to this extent.

What is the legacy of this past, and how you think it defines contemporary Delhi and its people?

In 1947, when India was partitioned, many of the old inhabitants of Mehrauli and Shahjahanabad left for Pakistan. The refugees who came here were shell-shocked by the trauma of being torn away from their native lands and having to start anew. For them it was survival that mattered the most. These old buildings held no meaning for them. There was a lot of encroachment those days. Those who didn’t migrate had different problems to cope with. Thankfully, the interest in heritage and our cultural legacy has once again been awakened. The younger generation is identifying with it and showing interest in preserving it. This can be seen in the wealth of books and programmes on our historical and cultural legacy.

Delhi is a juxtaposition of age old monuments and modern architecture. Do you think even by themselves these structures carry an impact?

For me every stone has a story to tell. It is up to us to tell those stories in such a way that these monuments speak to everyone. This can’t be done only through dry facts. It’s only when factual stories are associated with it that people will remember and talk of them fondly. For instance the feedback I get is that Sultan Razia’s story has made them look at Quwwatul ul Islam Mosque with new perspective. It is no longer a pile of stones but a place where a great historical event took place. Structures carry impact when we associate something which we found interesting with it. I don’t know how far I have succeeded but that has been my attempt.

source: http://m.thehindu.com/features/metroplus/stories-in-stone/article7646035.ece

by Swati Daftuar / September 12th, 2015

Where Stones Speak in Financial Express

ranasafvi — Tue, 06 Oct 2015 16:45:25 +0000

Monumental challenge

By Nitin Sreedhar | The Financial Express – Sun 27 Sep, 2015 3:35 AM IST

ASK ANYONE about Ugrasen ki Baoli in New Delhi and chances are your question will be met with a puzzled expression. That’s because not everyone is aware of the existence of this centuries-old step well, which is located on Hailey Road, hidden snugly behind the buzzing commotion and tall buildings of Connaught Place. The baoli, made with rubble and dressed (cut) stones, is said to have been built by Raja Ugrasen, the forefather of the Agrawal community in the 14th century.

Similarly, many people travelling on the Dilshad Garden-Rithala stretch of the Delhi Metro often catch glimpses of a tall red tower when they reach the Tis Hazari station, but not many know about it. The 33-metre-high structure is the Mutiny Memorial tower, which was erected in 1863 in memory of deceased soldiers of the Delhi Field Force during the Revolt of 1857. One of the oldest monuments in the capital, it is located on the northern ridge in the Civil Lines area of New Delhi.

These are just two of the many monuments in Delhi that have escaped the public eye and have been, literally, consigned to history. Sadly, they are also in dire need of restoration. There are also some that suffer because they are in the shadows of bigger, more prominent structures—the incomplete Alai Minar within the Qutab Complex is one such specimen. The unfinished minar was part of Sultan Alauddin Khilji’s plan to build a monument that would be taller and more spectacular than the Qutab Minar. Its construction started in 1311, but was abandoned when

Khilji died in 1316. Today, the 24-metre-high structure lies in ruins, just next to the majestic Qutab Minar.

In fact, many monuments, including the Dara Shikoh Library, Turkman Gate, Ghalib’s Haveli and the aforementioned Mutiny Memorial, only find space in the ‘lesser-known monuments’ category on the Delhi Tourism website. While negligence and vandalism remain the main points of concern for such architectural structures, climatic and maintenance issues also add to the dismal scenario.

Rana Safvi, historian and author of a recent book, Where Stones Speak: Historical Trails in Mehrauli, the First City of Delhi, says there are many monuments in Delhi that remain unsung. “The reason they are hidden from the public eye is because they are in very congested areas and not publicised enough,” says Safvi, whose book looks at the monuments in Mehrauli, the oldest of Delhi’s seven cities (the capital is said to have been the site for a total of seven different cities in the old days).

One such monument is the Firoz Shah Kotla fort, which is all that remains of the fifth city of Delhi, Firozabad—it was built by Sultan Firoz Shah Tughlaq in 1354. Though the high walls of the fort attract plenty of devotees every Thursday, when prayers and offerings are made to the djinns of the fort’s mosque, its popularity dims before the floodlights of the Feroz Shah Kotla cricket stadium, which lies adjacent to it.

Conservation and creating awareness are equally important, say experts. “Awareness can only come via active promotion on social and print media, and through books and programmes, which are interesting enough to make people want to go and see these monuments for themselves,” says Safvi.

One of the primary problems in conservation is the lack of sufficient resources, says AGK Menon, the convenor of the Delhi chapter of Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (Intach), an NGO that regularly conducts heritage walks and talks in the city. “There is no money to develop the areas in and around such monuments. Therefore, a lot of heritage sites remain neglected. They are vandalised, encroached upon and eventually lost,” he says. The second and probably the biggest problem, Menon says, is to do with awareness. “There are 174 monuments protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) in Delhi. Qutab (Minar) and Humayun’s Tomb are, of course, known because they are prominent, but how many people know about the others?” says Menon, adding that Intach has undertaken conservation work on many monuments around the city, including the Mutiny Memorial tower.

While Menon believes the government, public and media each have an equally important role to play, Safvi thinks the best way to conserve monuments is by public participation. “Conservation is possible with the participation of the general public. Also, if corporate houses were to partner with the ASI and help it restore or fund conservation, we could see them in much better shape,” says Safvi, adding, “We need stricter laws for encroachment. The ASI is doing the best it can with the resources it has on hand, but the repairs needed in conservation efforts are very expensive—in some cases, the ASI has to match the original material used, which is very costly.”

Menon says undertaking conservation projects requires “various levels of action”, but it all comes down to inculcating a sense of pride in residents. “We have to value the fact that we are living near a historical monument. We need to have pride in our city. It is absurd when politicians say they will transform Delhi into Shanghai,” says Menon.

Safvi agrees, “We go for holidays to Europe and the far east and come back awestruck, but rarely notice the treasures in our own backyard. When you go abroad, the one thing that stands out is cleanliness. In India, we don’t think twice before littering or scraping our names on walls of historical monuments… We have to see these structures as part of our cultural and historical legacies, not just as bricks and stones from the past,” Safvi adds.

https://in.finance.yahoo.com/news/monumental-challenge-220500383.html

Here Stones Speak in Hindustan Times

ranasafvi — Tue, 06 Oct 2015 16:41:22 +0000

In search of Delhi’s first city, Mehrauli

Manjula Narayan, Hindustan Times, New Delhi
Updated: Aug 29, 2015 14:07 IST

Built of red and buff sandstone, Qutub Minar has five storeys and four balconies. (Photo: Saumya Khandelwal/HT)

Author Rana Safvi leads a walk through Mehrauli, where Prithviraj Chauhan’s army fought Mohammad Ghori’s men, and where Timur pledged not to sack the city of Delhi

Safvi is one of those few Twitter celebrities – she has about 20.6k followers – who isn’t given to relentlessly pummelling the ether with tweets full of sound and fury signifying nothing. Her Twitter feed offers Urdu poetry, ruminations on Delhi’s culture and heritage, occasional panegyrics to Krishna, great pictures of historic landmarks, and a glimpse into her own erudite, graceful personality. So when I learn that she has written a book on Mehrauli, the oldest of Delhi’s seven cities, I waste no time in fixing to wander with her through the precinct.

We meet at Qutub Minar’s gate and make our way into Mehrauli and past Emperor Akbar’s foster brother Adham Khan’s tomb. Son of the emperor’s wet nurse Maham Anga, Adham Khan was thrown off the ramparts of Agra fort for killing another of the ruler’s foster brothers. The monument is currently being restored and already the intricate tiled pattern in the central dome seems to be emerging from under centuries of grime.

Rana Safvi at Adham Khan’s tomb. (Photo: Saumya Khandelwal/HT)

Trudging down lanes that wind past homes and shops, we arrive at the Shahi Eidgaah where the Delhi sultans once offered their Eid prayers and where Timur pledged not to sack the city. “He called all the ulema and the nobles and promised that he would not destroy or kill people. Then, his women went to see the famous Imarat e Hazar Sutun in Adilabad, where someone misbehaved with them. Some locals also fought with his soldiers. So then Timur revoked his promise, sacked Delhi and killed thousands of people,” Rana says. The silence that follows the story is rent only by the screeching of parrots.

Wandering further into Sanjay Van – where once the city sprawled – we come upon the dargah of Aashiq Allah or Nazariya Peer. “A lot of people come here, especially with babies, to ward off the evil eye,” Rana says. The complex includes a cave where Baba Farid Ganj-Shakkar is believed to have meditated without food or water for a long stretch. Close to the dargah, which has a fair number of visitors even on a muggy afternoon, are a number of graves. “That’s Ganj e Shaheeda’n, which means ‘the place where the martyrs are buried’,” Rana says explaining that the martyrs here were Mohammad Ghori’s soldiers, who fell in the battles against Prithviraj Chauhan in 1191-92. Watching a family of mongooses scramble away from the graves and into the forest, I think about the ephemeral quality of human existence, of vital young men sinking into graves from one century to the next, hacking at each other till the end of Time. Rana draws both of us away from sombre thoughts and to the well close by where Baba Farid “did his chillah-e-makoos”, a feat that involved hanging upside down for 40 nights.

Where Stones Speak; Historical Trails in Mehrauli, the First City of Delhi. Rana Safvi; HarperCollins (Rs.499; PP183)

Soon we are trudging down winding paths through the jungle and past the remains of a fort wall. “This is where the original city was; where Anangpal Tomar, Prithviraj Chauhan’s grandfather, established Lal Kot,” says Rana adding that the later Sultans called it Qila Rai Pithaura. The Qila was eventually abandoned by Alauddin Khilji for Siri Fort. “It’s called Siri fort because of the 8,000 Mongol heads he had buried in the foundations. That’s the legend,” Rana says as we return to the busier part of Mehrauli past overflowing garbage heaps and remnants of more ruins, a testament to how badly we treat our magnificent historical sites that would otherwise rival the monuments of Rome. But whatever the state of our built heritage, you must pick up a copy of Rana Safvi’s book. Full of information about Mehrauli’s monuments and interspersed with legends and poetry, Where Stones Speak is the handbook you should cart along on any exploratory walk through an area where ghosts canter past unseeing crowds in the evening light.

1. Qutub Minar

(Photo: Saumya Khandelwal/HT)

At 72.5m with 379 steps and built of red and buff sandstone, the Qutub Minar has five storeys and four balconies. Built by three sultans and repaired by many, the history of its construction is all given in the inscriptions on the various levels of the minar. It is the tallest ashlar masonry minar in the world

2. Adham Khan’s tomb

(Photo: Saumya Khandelwal/HT)

The son of Maham Anga, Emperor Akbar’s foster mother, Adham Khan murdered another of the ruler’s foster brothers, Atgha Khan, in a fit of rage. For this, he was twice thrown off the ramparts of Agra Fort. His mother died of grief six months later. Akbar built this monument to Adham Khan. Maham Anga is also believed to be buried in the complex though her tomb is no longer visible.

3. Shahi Eidgaah

(Photo: Saumya Khandelwal/HT)

The date of the Eidgaah’s construction is not known but it definitely existed during Timur’s invasion of Delhi in 1398 AD. Now made of whitewashed brick, it has a small doorway in the centre of the west wall. This was used by the sultans so they didn’t have to cross the common courtyard.

4. Lala Kot Wall

(Photo: Saumya Khandelwal/HT)

Angpal Tomar, Prithviraj Chauhan’s grandfather established Lal Kot, parts of whose wall is still visible.

5. Dargha of Aashiq Allah

(Photo: Saumya Khandelwal/HT)

The dargah was built in 1317 for Sheikh Shahabuddin, who is also known as Aashiq Allah or Nazariya Peer

6.Ganj e Shaheeda’N

These are the graves of Mohammad Ghori’s soldiers who died while battling the forces of Prithviraj Chauhan.

7. Baba Farid’s Well

The well at the entrance to the Aashiq Allah dargah is where Baba Farid is believed to have done his Chillah-e-Makoos, a form of penance where the person hangs upside down.

http://www.hindustantimes.com/books/in-search-of-delhi-s-first-city-mehrauli/story-cdPyi97lpOCtVx4l5RZNLM.html

http://m.hindustantimes.com/books/in-search-of-delhi-s-first-city-mehrauli/story-cdPyi97lpOCtVx4l5RZNLM.html

Interview with Rediff.com on Where Stones Speak

ranasafvi — Tue, 06 Oct 2015 16:37:23 +0000

The Mughals were struggling financially after Shah Jahan’

September 21, 2015 09:11 IST

‘Aurangzeb spent a major part in the Deccan. The later Mughals were looted by Nadir Shah and Ahmed Shah Abdali. The Mughals had no money to build. That’s why Zafar Mahal, the only palace they built in Mehrauli, was built very shoddily and quickly fell into ruin.’

‘Mehrauli spans a much longer period of time than any other city of Delhi,’ says historian Rana Safvi.

IMAGE: The Qutb Minar is Mehrauli’s most well known monument, the complex seen here in night-time. Photograph: Ankush Arora/Reuters

Everyone is aware of Delhi as a major tourist destination, but very few know about Mehrauli, the first city of Delhi, the city of seven cities.

Historian Rana Safvi explores this in her book, Where Stones Speak, Historical Trails in Mehrauli, the First City of Delhi.

Safvi tells Syed Firdaus Ashraf/Rediff.com she wanted to write about the seven cities of Delhi, but when she started research on Mehrauli she found that not much is known or written about Mehrauli, the first documented city of Delhi that lies within its heart.

“I felt it deserved its own separate story, and not as part of a book,” she says.

IMAGE; Metcalfe House, once a tomb, in Mehrauli. Photograph: Ankush Arora/Reuters

What differentiates Mehrauli from New Delhi or Shahjahanabad?

Mehrauli not only has the remnants of the walls and bastions of the ancient city of Lalkot built by the Tomars and Chauhans, it is also the scene of the earliest building activity of the Delhi sultans.

It is Mehrauli, not Shahjahanabad, which has the last building built by the Mughals as well. This city spans a much longer period of time than any other city of Delhi.

Why does Mehrauli not find as much prominence as a tourist spot as compared to other parts of Delhi?

Apart from the Qutub Complex and Mehrauli Archaeological Park, Mehrauli remains unknown because we haven’t developed it as a tourist attraction. Nor do we talk about its historical treasures.

You mention in your book that any city has to have three things: Dariya, baadal aur hakim (a river, rain-bearing clouds and a ruler who is willing and able). What did you mean by that?

Cities are built near rivers so that the populace has easy access to water. Firozabad onwards all cities were built on or around the banks of Yamuna, also called Jamuna, where there was sufficient rainfall which could be stored for use. Mehrauli had tanks which were filled by rainwater.

What was so enticing about Delhi that drew invaders from Muhammad Ghori to Ahmed Shah Abdali?

Dilli Hindustan ka dil thi (Delhi was the heart of India). There’s a saying that whoever ruled Delhi, ruled India.

You mentioned that Delhi was built several times over — as many as 14 times — till 1947.

I have described the 14 cities, their collapses and their restorations in detail in the book.

What was Hindu civilisation in Delhi like before the Muslim invasions began?

The contemporary literature we have from the early medieval period is all written by the Turks and Arabs. Al Beruni’s Tarikh Al-Hind (History of India) explores the Hindu civilisation, but I have not yet gone through it in detail.

Sultana Razia was from Mehrauli. Were you able to spot her palace, her grave?

Although it is not mentioned in the book, Sultan Razia lived with her mother in the Kushk-e-Firuz. It was behind the present boundary of the Qutub complex, after the madrasa of Sultan Alauddin Khilji. Turquoise tiles were excavated from that area by British archaeologists. She is buried near Turkman Gate in Bulbuli Khana.

IMAGE: Historian Rana Safvi, who has published Where Stones Speak, Historical Trails in Mehrauli, the First City of Delhi.

What do the Arabic inscriptions on the old Delhi tombs say? Have you been able to decipher it?

Work on this has been done by Archaeological Survey of India historians under the British. I have relied on Maulvi Zafar Hasan’s Monuments of India.

You have explained in the book the reason for octagonal tombs among Muslims while referring to the concept of hasht bahist, which is the eighth paradise according to Islamic tradition.

Do we find any other architectural designs for tombs which are different during Muslim rule? Was it always mandatory to have octagonal tombs for Muslim royalty?

There are only a few octagonal tombs in India. Post Humayun, the Mughals built on the Persian concept of charbagh with rivers flowing in it to emulate paradise.

The Mughals never built much in Mehrauli. Why was that?

The Mughals were struggling financially after Shah Jahan. Aurangzeb spent a major part in the Deccan province. The later Mughals were looted by the raids of Nadir Shah and Ahmed Shah Abdali. Even the Rohillas, the Jats and the Marathas plundered the treasury. They had no money to build.

That’s why Zafar Mahal, the only palace they built in Mehrauli, was built very shoddily and quickly fell into ruin.

You have highlighted the offerings of pankhas to the Yogmaya temple and the dargah of Qutub Sahab tradition started by the Mughal king Akbar Shah II, a practice which is seen even today. Were relations between Hindus and Muslims good during the Mughals in Delhi?

Contemporary historians highlight the bonhomie and common celebration of festivals inside and outside the fort. Bahadur Shah Zafar was the founder of the first Ramleela committee in Delhi. All these facts are beautifully described in Maheshwar Dayal’s book, Dilli jo ek shehar tha (Delhi, the city that was).

The presence of Jainism in Delhi finds a place in your book. Did Jainism prosper in Delhi?

We know from the existence of the Dadabari temple that Jainism flourished in Mehrauli, known then as Yoginipura. During the Tomar dynasty the Jain poet Vibudh Shridhar wrote the Apabhramsa work Pasanah Chariu (The Conduct of Parshva).

IMAGE: The Rajon ki Baoli (stepwell) in Mehrauli. Photograph: Ankush Arora/Reuters

You have been mentoring the #shair on Twitter for Urdu shayaris. You call yourself a champion of Ganga-Jamuna tehzeeb. How did this idea originate and why did you feel the urge to start this trend?

#shair started in 2010 when I realised how many people enjoy Urdu sher-o-shayari. It’s a living example of Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb wherein people from all walks of life join together to share and enjoy a common love for poetry.

Do you think the Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb, which you refer to, has come under threat?

Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb has been in India since time immemorial and while some people may oppose it, I don’t think they can succeed.

We have to stop pandering to communities for votes and setting up fear psychosis in each other’s minds. If only we remove ignorance about each other’s religion and culture, will we realise we are all the same.

It is as the Upanishads say: Ekam sat vipra bahudha vadanti. Truth is one; the wise call it by many names.

Syed Firdaus Ashraf / Rediff.com

http://www.rediff.com/news/interview/the-mughals-were-struggling-financially-after-shah-jahan/20150921.htm

Book Review of Where Stones Speak in Eenadu India Tue, 06th October 2015, 21:59 IST

ranasafvi — Tue, 06 Oct 2015 16:33:21 +0000

Mehrauli: Monuments that speak of India’s multiculturalism

Published 04-Oct-2015 13:00 IST

Pic courtsey: Facebook/Where Stones Speak

New Delhi: A church that wears looks of a temple and a mosque too, a festival that dates back to the Mughal rule and numerous monuments that have stories to tell. A new book ‘Where Stones Speak’ by historian Rana Safvi tells many little known stories associated with monuments around Mehrauli, the first and also the oldest of the seven cities that make modern day Delhi.

Although it is one of the most visited monuments of the capital, not many know that the nondescript second floor a mosque in the Qutub complex was a women’s mosque and it was standing on this floor that the young Razia was chosen Sultan by people of Delhi overthrowing her tyrant brother Ruknuddin Firoz Shah.The author takes the reader through the narrow, congested lanes of Mehrauli, describing the religious diversity of its monuments, from the rocky Qula Rai Pithoura to the Dargah of Sufi saint Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki and the ancient Yogmaya temple, telling stories associated with these.

However Razia was made of sterner stuff, she presented herself to the peole from the terrace with her grievance.

People of Delhi then proclaimed Razia as the new Sultan.

This was one of the first instances of a popular vote of sorts because people were given a chance to crown their monarch, the author says.

The author also suggests an itinerary for those who want to take a look at the monuments in Mehrauli and its monuments.

http://www.eenaduindia.com/News/National/2015/10/04130011/Mehrauli-Monuments-that-speak-of-Indias-multiculturalism.vpf

Book Launch of Where Stones Speak

ranasafvi — Tue, 06 Oct 2015 16:23:07 +0000

Book Launch: Where Stones Speak by Rana Safvi

By RCD Team on September 23, 2015 Event

Urdu and Qutb Minar: A Perfect setting for a Book Launch.

Rana Safvi launched her book Where Stones Speak at Qutb Minar on 20th September 2015 and trust me the venue of the launch couldn’t get any better. From seasoned intellectuals like Janab Sohail Hashmi to young Literature enthusiasts like me, the get together was an experiential one.

Hogi iss dheri maarat ki kahaani kuchh toh
Dhudh alfaz ke malbe mein maa ini kuchh toh

(Surely a story hides behind these ruins, somewhere

Search the debris of words, the meaning is there, somewhere)

(Shahpar Rasool)

This Urdu couplet written at the back of Safvi’s book most aptly captures its essence. Rana Safvi is a historian and currently writes a blog Hazrat- e – Dilli which talks about Delhi’s food, culture, history and age old-traditions.

Where Stones Speak is a historical book, that describes Mehrauli, the first City of Delhi in a very colloquial language. The book is rich in visuals and Urdu shairi, which makes it all the more enriching.

“Blending stirring Urdu couplets with haunting visuals, author Rana Safvi walks us through the Oldest of Delhi, describing the religious diversity of Mehrauli’s monumemt.”

-Introduction from the book

We were taken for a heritage walk, led by Safvi herself, at 9:30am through the mesmerizing Qutb Complex. The joy of witnessing the beautiful Qutb Complex was intensified greatly by the captivating narration of its history by Safvi.

Our walk started from the Quwaat-ul-Islam Mosque. Rana told us how it was made after demolition of twenty-seven Hindu and Jain temples. The architecture of the mosque thus reflects the fusion of Indo-Islamic design.
She even drew our attention to the first floor, which was a separate room for women to pray within the mosque. The very interesting history of Razia Sultan followed.

The historical documents say that after saying her Juma (Friday) prayer, Razia came down from the women’s mosque and made an emphatic speech on being wronged by her step-brother. She got immense support and was crowned the Sultan. It is one of the earliest instances of a woman ruler being popularly elected by the people.

After Quwaat-ul-Islam mosque, we went towards the Iron Pillar, the Qutb Minar and Sultan Iltutmish’s tomb. Mr Syed M. Qasim, the photographer for the book shared his experience of coming really early in the morning to get the very beautiful picture for the book cover.

Juices, water bottles and wet wipes provided the much needed respite. After the walk, we retired to the documentary room, where the floor was open for questions. The author signed our copies of the book.

All in all, it was a successful event. Everybody who is interested in the history of Delhi and would like to know about it in the easiest and most appealing manner should definitely get their copies of Where Stones Speak.

Event Coverage by Tahira Khan.

http://readersclubdelhi.com/book-launch-where-stones-speak-by-rana-safvi/

Mehrauli Flower Market

ranasafvi — Tue, 28 Oct 2014 17:53:08 +0000

The Mehrauli flower market or phoolon ki mandi was a city landmark. It is opposite the Qutub Minar metro station in front of the Mehrauli Archeological Park nurseries.
The three main flower marketsof Fatehpuri, Mehrauli, and Connaught Place, have now been shifted to a single unit in Ghazipur, near the Delhi-Uttar Pradesh border.
However on eve of Diwali I found a few vendors here selling marigold and lotus.

Selling flowers is hard work

Though it looks it, selling flowers aint childs play

Getting them.straightened

A streetcar full of desires

The auspicious lotus blooms

This beautiful bouquet with crepe paper.

Since it was diwali eve the leaves were prepared for hanging too

Wherever there are crowds, there are chat vendors too!

Sair e Gul Faroshan – Delhi’s Ganga Jamuni Festival

ranasafvi — Sun, 12 Oct 2014 16:42:34 +0000

“Khalqullah kyun khrosha’n hain..
Aaj kya Sair e Gulfaronshan hain?
“Baheliyo’n yaqqo’n ka ek taanta hai…
Jisko dekho wo Qutub jata hai”
(photograph from 2013 by Syed Mohammed Qasim)

Delhi has been host to one of the most beautiful festivals of India which truly symbolises its syncretic culture and Ganga Jamuni Tehzeeb. This is the annual Sair e Gul Faroshan or Phool Waalon ki Sair which is traditionally held in the month of Bhadon. It is a 3 day festival which sees the participation of people from all walks of life and faith.
Mughal Emperor, Akbar Shah II (1808 -1837) had wanted to nominate his younger and favourite son Mirza Jahangir as his heir, in lieu of the eldest ( who later succeeded him as Bahadur Shah Zafar) a move not liked by the British Resident, Sir Archibald Seton. Mirza Jahangir, a hot headed youth mocked the resident and later took a shot at him from the Naubat Khana in the Red Fort. Though Sir Archibald was unharmed, Mirza Jahangir was exiled to the Allahabad Fort. This led to great consternation and grief to his parents particularly his mother, Mumtaz Mahal Begum.
She made a vow that if he came back safely she would offer a chadar at the Dargah of Hazrat Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. In a few years the Prince returned and the devout and grateful Queen undertook a journey from the Red Fort to the Dargah in Mehrauli. As per her vow she walked barefoot and flower sellers spread flowers in her path to act as a cushion. Photograph by Syed Mohammed Qasim from 2013.

The Queen spent a week in Mehrauli and there was great merry making. The secular Emperor also sent a floral chadar to the ancient and nearby temple of Yogmaya Devi, the sister of Lord Krishna. Every year the Emperor ensured he and his courtiers went to both the Dargah and Mandir. If he could not go to the Mandir for some reason he would not go to the Dargah either.
I don’t think there is any other festival which showcases our syncretic culture better.
When Akber Shah II started Sair e Gul Faroshan , Bahadur Shah Zafar was heir apparent, though not in the good books of the King.In order to please the Emperor, Zafar had composed a poem in praise of the pankha.
The first verse is:
“Noor-e-altaf-o-karam ki hai sub uski jhalak
Ke voh zahir hai malek our hai batin main malak”…….
“Ye bana is Shahe Akber ki ba doulat pankha”
Since then every year this festival is celebrated for 3 days.
Photograph Syed Mohammed Qasim

The President and Lt. Governor of Delhi send a pankha which is carried in a procession from the Town hall in Chandni Chowk to Mehrauli.On the first day , which is Thursday a joyous procession goes to Qutub Sahab’s dargah and offers floral chadars.Here it is the Hindu brethren who take the lead.
On Friday the procession goes to Yogmaya Temple and offers the floral chadar there. Here the Muslim brethren take the lead.
On Saturday there is a cultural function at Jahaz Mahal, a building from the Lodi period which may have been built for use of pilgrims to Qutub Sahab’s dargah.There is a general air of festivity and gay abandon and buildings such as the jharna are decorated and spruced up.
Photograph Syed Mohammed Qasim Photograph Syed Mohammed Qasim
A fair is held and people come from far and wide to sell and buy the wares. Cultural troupes come from different states and perform The Mughal Family would come and stay in Zafar Mahal for the duration of the festival. Now the Mughal summer palace is in ruins
This fair was continued by the British Comissioner of Delhi after 1857. In 1942 during the Quit India movement the British government put a stop to the sair to prevent popular participation and mass gatherings. It was restarted in 1961 by Yogeshwar Dayal & Jawaharlal Nehru as a symbol of secular, modern India.