I was told it is called Paandan Mahal because it is shaped like a paandan. I visit it to find an unknown broken grave and brick walls with remnants of beautiful niches, their surface getting peeled off. Perhaps these were once painted? They aren’t deep enough to hold candles or lamps.

Shah Jahan was married to Shahnawaz Khan’s daughter. The Paandan Mahal’s proximity to his mausoleum the Kala Taj Mahal leads me to wonder: Could she be resting inside it? Or does it belong to some other family member?

It’s a hauntingly attractive monument but in the danger of falling down any time soon. The heritage of Burhanpur doesn’t seem to be on anyone’s priority list.