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	<title>sherwani &#8211; Rana Safvi</title>
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		<title>The Angarkha or the Angrakshak</title>
		<link>https://ranasafvi.com/the-angarkha/</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Sep 2014 06:45:44 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Our Cultural Heritage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[angarkha]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[marsiya]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[MirAnees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[NAwab Wajid Ali Shah]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sherwani]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hazrat-e-dilli.com/?p=159</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[The word angarkha is supposed to be taken from the Sanskrit Angrakshak which means to protect the limbs. It is&#160; long Indian robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees, which was very popular in N.India in the 19th century and&#160; is also worn with slight variations by men [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The word angarkha is supposed to be taken from the Sanskrit Angrakshak which means to protect the limbs.</p>
<p><span style="color: #000000">It is</span><span style="color: #000000"><b><i>&nbsp;</i></b></span><span style="color: #000000"> long Indian robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees, which was very popular in N.India in the 19th century and&nbsp; is also worn with slight variations by men in western India .</span><br />
The&nbsp; different types of angarakhas are frock style, waist-length kamari angarakha and the long angarakha which reaches below the knees. Matrerials used would depend on weather and occasion: muslin with chikankaari for summers, brocade and velvet for festive occasions .</p>
<p>Perhaps the most famous weare of the angarkha was Nawab Wajid Ali Shah and this portrait of him with a bit of bare chest is one of his most famous pictures.</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-img_20140916_143512.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-img_20140916_143512.jpg?resize=230%2C375" class="aligncenter" title="IMG_20140916_143512.jpg" alt="image" width="230" height="375"  data-recalc-dims="1"></a></p>
<p>Unlike this portrait, men didn&#8217;t show bare chest and the flap covering the chest was tightly tied by flaps to both sides of the angarkha.</p>
<p>It typically has a front open with two flaps and one of the flaps (right)&nbsp; will have a covering for the chest attached to it which is then tied with strings to other side.</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-jama320.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-jama320.jpg?resize=371%2C255" class="aligncenter" title="JAMA320.jpg" alt="image" width="371" height="255"  data-recalc-dims="1"></a></p>
<p>This is the frock styled angarkha which was made of very fine muslin and the cut can be seen in this book which is in the Metropolitan Museum site</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-calico-museum-047.jpg.jpeg"><img decoding="async" data-attachment-id="13637" data-permalink="https://ranasafvi.com/the-angarkha/optimized-sss/" data-orig-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Optimized-sss.jpeg" data-orig-size="533,400" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}" data-image-title="Optimized-sss" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-medium-file="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Optimized-sss.jpeg?resize=350%2C263&#038;ssl=1" data-large-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Optimized-sss.jpeg" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Optimized-sss.jpeg?resize=350%2C263&#038;ssl=1" class="aligncenter wp-image-13637" alt="" width="350" height="263" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Optimized-sss.jpeg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Optimized-sss.jpeg?w=533&amp;ssl=1 533w" sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a></p>
<p>In the angarkha given below you can see how it is tied and supposed to be worn.</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-ci64.78.2_f.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-ci64.78.2_f.jpg?resize=263%2C443" class="aligncenter" title="CI64.78.2_F.jpg" alt="image" width="263" height="443"  data-recalc-dims="1"></a></p>
<p>A typical angarkha which I have seen people wear in my childhood, especially during Moharrum keeping in line with the standard set by MIr Anees the master of the craft of marsiya ( elegy writen on the Battle of Karbala). Marsiyakhwaans ( those who recited marsiyas would wear angarkha and do palli topi with chauda (wide rimmed) pyjama . I have seen my uncle Syed Tanvirul Hasan wear the angarkha while reciting marsiya and I have one of his cotton angarkhas as a memento.</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-download-2.jpg.jpeg"><img decoding="async" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-download-2.jpg.jpeg?resize=179%2C381" class="aligncenter" title="download (2).jpg" alt="image" width="179" height="381"  data-recalc-dims="1"></a></p>
<p>Famous Dastangos Danish Hussain and MAhmood Farooqi have revived the lost art form of story telling or dastangoi.</p>
<p>They not only tell traditional tales but dress as the dastangos of the Mughal and later period in Delhi and Awadh used to : White muslin angarkha , chaudi mori ka pyjama ( wide pyjamas) and a do palli topi. Do palli topi is unique to the subcontinent.</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-hy21dastango_232563f.jpg"><img decoding="async" data-attachment-id="37061" data-permalink="https://ranasafvi.com/the-angarkha/img_8795/" data-orig-file="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8795.jpg?resize=346%2C522&#038;ssl=1" data-orig-size="346,522" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}" data-image-title="img_8795" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-medium-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8795-199x300.jpg" data-large-file="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8795.jpg?resize=346%2C522&#038;ssl=1" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8795.jpg?resize=346%2C522&#038;ssl=1" class="size-full wp-image-37061" width="346" height="522" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8795.jpg?w=346&amp;ssl=1 346w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8795.jpg?resize=199%2C300&amp;ssl=1 199w" sizes="(max-width: 346px) 100vw, 346px" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a></p>
<p>This angarkha made of brocade was for festive occasions and worn in the non summer months. Summers it was always cotton/muslin in keeping with the weather.</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-170970038.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-170970038.jpg?resize=370%2C247" class="aligncenter" title="170970038.jpg" alt="image" width="370" height="247"  data-recalc-dims="1"></a></p>
<p>An intricately embroidered angarkha for royalty now kept in a museum.</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-8024581db354fe3f2df71d0aea946a6f.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-8024581db354fe3f2df71d0aea946a6f.jpg?resize=299%2C384" class="aligncenter" title="8024581db354fe3f2df71d0aea946a6f.jpg" alt="image" width="299" height="384"  data-recalc-dims="1"></a></p>
<p>In West India the angarkhs was adapted to become an angarkhi just below the waist and worn with dhoti instead of pyjama</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-angarkha-traditional-rajasthani-costume-for-men.jpg.jpeg"><img decoding="async" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-angarkha-traditional-rajasthani-costume-for-men.jpg.jpeg" class="aligncenter size-full" title="Angarkha Traditional Rajasthani Costume for Men.jpg" alt="image" data-recalc-dims="1"></a></p>
<p>Of course nowadays angarkhas have been adapted for women and we rarely see men wearing it</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-94ca6ede9f127eb8af7a8dc2e1c136f4.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-94ca6ede9f127eb8af7a8dc2e1c136f4.jpg?resize=197%2C371" class="aligncenter" title="94ca6ede9f127eb8af7a8dc2e1c136f4.jpg" alt="image" width="197" height="371"  data-recalc-dims="1"></a></p>
<p>To differentiate the photograph given below is of a sherwani which is a completely different cut and design</p>
<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-sherwani422.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-sherwani422.jpg?resize=217%2C305" class="aligncenter" title="sherwani422.jpg" alt="image" width="217" height="305"  data-recalc-dims="1"></a></p>
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