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	<title>WhereStonesSpeak &#8211; Rana Safvi</title>
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	<description>A blog exploring India&#039;s Ganga Jamuni Tehzeeb or its rich multi plural multi cultural heritage via its adab, tehzeeb &#38; tareekh</description>
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		<title>The Shah Burj in Red Fort, Delhi : Then and Now</title>
		<link>https://ranasafvi.com/the-shah-burj-in-red-fort-delhi-then-and-now/</link>
					<comments>https://ranasafvi.com/the-shah-burj-in-red-fort-delhi-then-and-now/#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[ranasafvi]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Nov 2020 21:18:30 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Book and Publication]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hazrat-E-Dilli]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[shahjahanabad #ShahjahanabadTheLivingCityofOldDelhi]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[WhereStonesSpeak]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[Shah Burj missing a dome now were royal apartments &#8211; the Nahr e Bahisht originated &#38; flowed thru out the Fort by a charming arrangement called shutur gulu ( camel&#8217;s neck) .The water fell as a cascade into a pool lined with jade and coral and then flowed out into a marble stream which had [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[
<p>Shah Burj missing a dome now were royal apartments &#8211; the Nahr e Bahisht originated &amp; flowed thru out the Fort by a charming arrangement called shutur gulu ( camel&#8217;s neck) .The water fell as a cascade into a pool lined with jade and coral and then flowed out into a marble stream which  had silver fountains.</p>



<p><br />Moti mahal a charming marble pavilion stood here demolished post 1857 because it blocked flow of air to the barracks : acc to one British account.<br /></p>



<p> you can see remnants of a redone  channel  of the nahr in front but I doubt it was ever used. </p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" width="1536" height="2048" data-attachment-id="37066" data-permalink="https://ranasafvi.com/the-shah-burj-in-red-fort-delhi-then-and-now/img_8854/" data-orig-file="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8854-scaled.jpg?resize=1536%2C2048&#038;ssl=1" data-orig-size="1536,2048" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;1.8&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;iPhone XS Max&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1604629471&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;4.25&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;400&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.03030303030303&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}" data-image-title="img_8854" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-medium-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8854-225x300.jpg" data-large-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8854-768x1024.jpg" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8854-scaled.jpg?resize=1536%2C2048&#038;ssl=1" alt="" class="wp-image-37066" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8854-scaled.jpg?w=1536&amp;ssl=1 1536w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8854-scaled.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8854-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8854-scaled.jpg?resize=1152%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 1152w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" data-recalc-dims="1" /><figcaption>Painted by Mazhar Ali Khan for Thomas Metcalfe &#8216;s Imperial Dehlie- one can see the carnelian, coral and jade set in the fountain </figcaption></figure>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" width="1024" height="1024" data-attachment-id="37065" data-permalink="https://ranasafvi.com/the-shah-burj-in-red-fort-delhi-then-and-now/img_8853/" data-orig-file="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8853.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&#038;ssl=1" data-orig-size="1024,1024" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}" data-image-title="img_8853" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-medium-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8853-300x300.jpg" data-large-file="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8853.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&#038;ssl=1" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8853.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&#038;ssl=1" alt="" class="wp-image-37065" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8853.jpg?w=1024&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8853.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8853.jpg?resize=150%2C150&amp;ssl=1 150w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8853.jpg?resize=768%2C768&amp;ssl=1 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" data-recalc-dims="1" /><figcaption>Then and now</figcaption></figure>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" width="1124" height="827" data-attachment-id="37064" data-permalink="https://ranasafvi.com/the-shah-burj-in-red-fort-delhi-then-and-now/img_8852/" data-orig-file="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8852.jpg?resize=1124%2C827&#038;ssl=1" data-orig-size="1124,827" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}" data-image-title="img_8852" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-medium-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8852-300x221.jpg" data-large-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8852-1024x753.jpg" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8852.jpg?resize=1124%2C827&#038;ssl=1" alt="" class="wp-image-37064" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8852.jpg?w=1124&amp;ssl=1 1124w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8852.jpg?resize=300%2C221&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8852.jpg?resize=1024%2C753&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8852.jpg?resize=768%2C565&amp;ssl=1 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" data-recalc-dims="1" /><figcaption>The Shah Burj today</figcaption></figure>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" width="1125" height="1487" data-attachment-id="37067" data-permalink="https://ranasafvi.com/the-shah-burj-in-red-fort-delhi-then-and-now/img_8857/" data-orig-file="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8857.jpg?resize=1125%2C1487&#038;ssl=1" data-orig-size="1125,1487" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}" data-image-title="img_8857" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-medium-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8857-227x300.jpg" data-large-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8857-775x1024.jpg" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8857.jpg?resize=1125%2C1487&#038;ssl=1" alt="" class="wp-image-37067" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8857.jpg?w=1125&amp;ssl=1 1125w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8857.jpg?resize=227%2C300&amp;ssl=1 227w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8857.jpg?resize=775%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 775w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8857.jpg?resize=768%2C1015&amp;ssl=1 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" data-recalc-dims="1" /><figcaption>The oval pool without any of the precious stones</figcaption></figure>



<p><br /><strong>What happened to the emperor &#8216;s private apartments after 1857…</strong></p>



<p>This picture was taken on 1877. At that time it was occupied as the private quarters of Captain Stratford and Captain Collins of the 1st Warwickshire regiment.<br />I clicked this picture from Annual Report (1909-10) of Archaeological Survey of India.<br />This illustration was reprinted on this edition.</p>



<p>(Contributed by Shahroz Ejaz Hussain)</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" width="1440" height="1090" data-attachment-id="37063" data-permalink="https://ranasafvi.com/the-shah-burj-in-red-fort-delhi-then-and-now/img_8851/" data-orig-file="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8851.jpg?resize=1440%2C1090&#038;ssl=1" data-orig-size="1440,1090" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}" data-image-title="img_8851" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-medium-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8851-300x227.jpg" data-large-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8851-1024x775.jpg" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8851.jpg?resize=1440%2C1090&#038;ssl=1" alt="" class="wp-image-37063" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8851.jpg?w=1440&amp;ssl=1 1440w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8851.jpg?resize=300%2C227&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8851.jpg?resize=1024%2C775&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/img_8851.jpg?resize=768%2C581&amp;ssl=1 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" data-recalc-dims="1" /></figure>



<p></p>



<p>To buy my book </p>



<p>http://bit.ly/Shahjahanabad</p>
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		<item>
		<title>A testimony to broken dreams</title>
		<link>https://ranasafvi.com/a-testimony-to-broken-dreams/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Rana Safvi]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Jan 2019 16:32:52 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[My Travels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[#DilliKiAakhiriShama]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sharqi]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[WhereStonesSpeak]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[Rana Safvi 06 JANUARY 2019 A journey through the ruins of Phuti Masjid, built by Sarfaraz Khan, in Murshidabad https://www.thehindu.com/opinion/columns/a-testimony-to-broken-dreams/article25921048.ece/amp/ It is difficult to imagine that Murshidabad, now a small, sleepy town in West Bengal, was among the richest courts of the 18th and 19th century. It hides many conspiracies, power brokers, pawns and fallen [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img decoding="async" data-attachment-id="11861" data-permalink="https://ranasafvi.com/a-testimony-to-broken-dreams/img_3704/" data-orig-file="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/img_3704.jpg?resize=4032%2C3024&#038;ssl=1" data-orig-size="2048,1536" data-comments-opened="0" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}" data-image-title="img_3704" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-medium-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/img_3704-300x225.jpg" data-large-file="https://ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/img_3704-1024x768.jpg" src="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/img_3704.jpg?resize=4032%2C3024&#038;ssl=1" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-11861" width="4032" height="3024" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/img_3704.jpg?w=2048&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/img_3704.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/img_3704.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/ranasafvi.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/img_3704.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" data-recalc-dims="1" /></p>
<p><span class="mobile-author" style="caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-size: 18px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none"><a class="mobile-auth-nm lnk" href="https://www.thehindu.com/profile/contributor/Rana-Safvi-5598/" target="_top" style="color: rgb(19, 59, 90); outline: 0px; transition: color 450ms ease-in-out 0s, background-color 450ms ease-in-out 0s; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-size: 16px; line-height: 25px">Rana Safvi</a></span></p>
<p><span class="blue-color ksl-time-stamp" style="color: rgb(19, 59, 90); font-weight: 700; text-transform: uppercase; font-size: 10px; font-family: Fira-Sans-SemiBold, sans-serif; line-height: 12px; letter-spacing: 0.69px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none"><strong>06 JANUARY 2019 </strong></span></p>
<p class="intro" style="color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-size: 18px; line-height: 26px; font-weight: normal; font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-style: normal; caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none"><em>A journey through the ruins of Phuti Masjid, built by Sarfaraz Khan, in Murshidabad</em></p>
<p style="font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-size: 18px; color: rgb(40, 40, 40); line-height: 26px; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none"><a href="https://www.thehindu.com/opinion/columns/a-testimony-to-broken-dreams/article25921048.ece/amp/">https://www.thehindu.com/opinion/columns/a-testimony-to-broken-dreams/article25921048.ece/amp/</a></p>
<div class="article-cont" style="font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-size: 18px; color: rgb(40, 40, 40); line-height: 26px; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; margin-bottom: 10px; caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none">
<p style="font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-size: 18px; color: rgb(40, 40, 40); line-height: 26px; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal">It is difficult to imagine that Murshidabad, now a small, sleepy town in West Bengal, was among the richest courts of the 18th and 19th century. It hides many conspiracies, power brokers, pawns and fallen emperors in its heart.</p>
<p style="font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-size: 18px; color: rgb(40, 40, 40); line-height: 26px; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal">One such fallen emperor was Sarfaraz Khan, the maternal grandson of Murshid Quli Khan, the founder of the city and the Nasiri dynasty. Nawab Murshid Quli Khan appointed Sarfaraz Khan as his successor before his death in 1727 as there was no direct heir to the throne. However, his son-in-law (Sarfaraz’s father) Shuja Khan frustrated Sarfaraz’s dreams. He felt that he had a bigger claim to the<span class="Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><em>musnad,</em><span class="Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>or the throne, of Murshidabad. Sarfaraz could only ascend the throne in 1739 with the title Alauddin Haider Jung.</p>
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<h2 style="caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none">A short-lived reign</h2>
<p style="font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-size: 18px; color: rgb(40, 40, 40); line-height: 26px; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none">But his problems did not stop there. The newly crowned Nawab fell out with his Wazir, Haji Ahmed. The Wazir won over the rich banker Jagat Seth Fateh Chand and Rai Rayan Chand and started plotting against the Nawab. Haji Ahmed invited Ali Vardi Khan, the Nawab Nazim of Bihar, to seek someone from the Mughal empire to replace Sarfaraz Khan. In the battle of Giria, Ali Vardi Khan defeated Sarfaraz Khan. The<span class="Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><em>Musnad of Murshidabad,</em><span class="Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>compiled by Purna Chandra Majumdar, mentions that the Jagat Seths suborned the Nawab’s men to place bricks and clods instead of cannon balls and fodder in Sarfaraz Khan’s magazine. Though the Nawab found out and gave charge of his artillery to a Portuguese, he was killed by a bullet as he rode out to battle on his elephant. Nawab Sarfaraz Khan ruled only for a year.</p>
<h2 style="caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none">Inside Phuti Masjid</h2>
<p style="font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-size: 18px; color: rgb(40, 40, 40); line-height: 26px; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none">When I went to Murshidabad, I visited the grand mosques, palaces and imambaras constructed by the Nawabs who ruled for a longer time and in happier circumstances. But it was the Phuti Masjid that I found fascinating.<span class="Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style="font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-size: 18px; color: rgb(40, 40, 40); line-height: 26px; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none">The mosque is quite large: 135 ft. long and 38 ft. wide with four cupolas at the corners. Only two of its five planned domes were completed. Dangerous looking spiral staircases lead up to the cupolas. As the builder died soon after construction began, the mosque was never completed. And so the name Phuti Masjid, or broken mosque. It is also known rather morbidly as Fouti Masjid. ‘Fout’ means death, and the name was apparently given after the builder’s death.</p>
<p><span style="caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-size: 18px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration: none; display: inline !important; float: none">As I approached the mosque, I first saw brick walls surrounded by small cottages and fields on a dusty road. The walls were covered with moss. I went eastward, which is the direction in which people generally enter mosques. But I found to my dismay that the entrance was at a height and there were no steps leading up to it. My guide was young and he quickly climbed up. With his help, I somehow managed to scramble up the mud incline. I am glad that I did, for I immediately saw a huge hall and soaring arches. There was a sense of desolation, mystery and a strange undercurrent of spirituality in the mosque. An extremely religious and devout Nawab with money, power and resources had wanted to build a house of worship, yet no one ever prayed there. It was more like a scene from a horror movie: there was a semi-open roof, wild undergrowth, and trees and the sun rays peeped in through apertures. Just then I heard shrill voices. Two children from a nearby cottage, aged four and five, had clambered up to ask if they could be my guides!</span></p>
<p><span style="caret-color: rgb(40, 40, 40); color: rgb(40, 40, 40); font-family: TundraWeb, serif; font-size: 18px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration: none; display: inline !important; float: none">One legend goes that this mosque was built in one night by Sarfaraz Khan. Another says that a number of workers toiled for several months to construct it. During roll call one day, it was found that one worker was not present. This happened a number of times and as the story became famous, the mysterious workman disappeared leaving his work incomplete and no one could match his skill. Both stories point to the hand of Djinns. Whatever be the truth, this broken structure is still standing despite all the odds, surrounded by houses, fields and hostile elements, a mute testimony to broken dreams.</span></p>
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