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    Aligarh’s Jama Masjid

    Aligarh’s Jama Masjid

    Darbar of Guru Ram Rai in Dehradun

    Darbar of Guru Ram Rai in Dehradun

    Lord Buddha’s sermon in Kausambi, Allahabad and the Fortress

    Lord Buddha’s sermon in Kausambi, Allahabad and the Fortress

    Abu Serga Church, Cairo

    Abu Serga Church, Cairo

    The Exquisite Badal Mahal in Bundi Part 1

    The Exquisite Badal Mahal in Bundi Part 1

    Jhanjhiri Mosque in Jaunpur

    Jhanjhiri Mosque in Jaunpur

    Gurudwara Lekhensar Sahib‬ in Talwandi Sabo

    Gurudwara Lekhensar Sahib‬ in Talwandi Sabo

    Ulugh Beg’s Observatory in Samarqand, Uzbekistan

    Ulugh Beg’s Observatory in Samarqand, Uzbekistan

    Rani Ki Baori, Bundi, Rajasthan

    Rani Ki Baori, Bundi, Rajasthan

    Bundi Fort, Rajasthan

    Bundi Fort, Rajasthan

    Rock Paintings in Bundi, Rajasthan

    Rock Paintings in Bundi, Rajasthan

    A Classical Nayika in Indian Paintings

    A Classical Nayika in Indian Paintings

    Jhat pat Bibi ki kahani

    Jhat pat Bibi ki kahani

    Jahangir ‘s Jade Cup

    Jahangir ‘s Jade Cup

    The Jama Masjid in Bodh Gaya

    The Jama Masjid in Bodh Gaya

    Buddha statues in Guimet Museum, Paris

    Buddha statues in Guimet Museum, Paris

    Museum of Scholars, Khiva , Uzbekistan

    Museum of Scholars, Khiva , Uzbekistan

    Malika e Kishwar’s grave in Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris

    Malika e Kishwar’s grave in Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris

    Samanid Mausoleum in Bukhara

    Samanid Mausoleum in Bukhara

    Gur e Amir, mausoleum of Amir Timur in Samarqand,Uzbekistan

    Gur e Amir, mausoleum of Amir Timur in Samarqand,Uzbekistan

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      Aligarh’s Jama Masjid

      Aligarh’s Jama Masjid

      Darbar of Guru Ram Rai in Dehradun

      Darbar of Guru Ram Rai in Dehradun

      Lord Buddha’s sermon in Kausambi, Allahabad and the Fortress

      Lord Buddha’s sermon in Kausambi, Allahabad and the Fortress

      Abu Serga Church, Cairo

      Abu Serga Church, Cairo

      The Exquisite Badal Mahal in Bundi Part 1

      The Exquisite Badal Mahal in Bundi Part 1

      Jhanjhiri Mosque in Jaunpur

      Jhanjhiri Mosque in Jaunpur

      Gurudwara Lekhensar Sahib‬ in Talwandi Sabo

      Gurudwara Lekhensar Sahib‬ in Talwandi Sabo

      Ulugh Beg’s Observatory in Samarqand, Uzbekistan

      Ulugh Beg’s Observatory in Samarqand, Uzbekistan

      Rani Ki Baori, Bundi, Rajasthan

      Rani Ki Baori, Bundi, Rajasthan

      Bundi Fort, Rajasthan

      Bundi Fort, Rajasthan

      Rock Paintings in Bundi, Rajasthan

      Rock Paintings in Bundi, Rajasthan

      A Classical Nayika in Indian Paintings

      A Classical Nayika in Indian Paintings

      Jhat pat Bibi ki kahani

      Jhat pat Bibi ki kahani

      Jahangir ‘s Jade Cup

      Jahangir ‘s Jade Cup

      The Jama Masjid in Bodh Gaya

      The Jama Masjid in Bodh Gaya

      Buddha statues in Guimet Museum, Paris

      Buddha statues in Guimet Museum, Paris

      Museum of Scholars, Khiva , Uzbekistan

      Museum of Scholars, Khiva , Uzbekistan

      Malika e Kishwar’s grave in Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris

      Malika e Kishwar’s grave in Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris

      Samanid Mausoleum in Bukhara

      Samanid Mausoleum in Bukhara

      Gur e Amir, mausoleum of Amir Timur in Samarqand,Uzbekistan

      Gur e Amir, mausoleum of Amir Timur in Samarqand,Uzbekistan

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      A story of neglect and disrepair : Begumpur Masjid

      inHazrat-E-Dilli
      0
      From childhood i have been hearing a phrase
      ” Khandhar bata rahe hain ke imarat shaandar thi”
      Today i was almost in tears at the ruin of a once magnificent place of worship and piece of architecture.
      Begumpur is the Jami Masjid of Jahanpanah the 4th city of Delhi built by Mohammad bin Tughlaq.
      It was built to fight the Mongol menace and means Refuge of the World. Except for some ruins not much of the city survives today.
      Today it lies in the heart of Delhi, near Malviya Nagar, in a state of neglect and disrepair.
      The elevated entrance to this imposing, stark mosque.
      Though Many historians and websites say that these mosques (or some of them) were built byKhan-i-Jahan Maqbool Tilangani (Malik Maqbool), The ASI Publication “Delhi and its Neighbourhood” says that “….the Begumpuri-Masjid,(is)….reputed to have been built by Khan-e-Jahan Juna Shah….” Even Sir Syed in his seminal work Asarus Sanadeed attributes the Begumpur Mosque to Khan e Jahan Ferozshahi ( Junior)
      The famous mosques made by Telingani are:
      • Khirki Mosque.
      • Begampur Mosque.
      • Masjid Kalu Sarai.
      • Kalan Masjid (Hazrat Nizamuddin).
      • Masjid Firoz Shah Kotla.
      • Masjid Wakya (Lahori gate).
      • Kalan Masjid (Turkaman gate).
      • There is a dispute whether Telingani was indeed the builder of these mosques but i am going with the public view)
      Once inside the visitor is greeted by the sight of a huge courtyard with prayer corridors on three sides.

      andheron men khanDar sotaa padaa hai
      abaabiilon ke lashkar jaagte hain

      The mosque measures 307ft by 295ft and included within its walls a madrasa and a treasury.

      The central pishtaq is supported by pillons on both sides and houses the central mehrab.
      In Islamic architecture, a rectangular frame around an arched opening, usually associated with an iwan,a vaulted space used as an entrance.

      The mehrab : the only part of the mosque in some semblqnce of order ans maintenance.

      Till 1921 there were villagers living inside along with their cattle. In 1921 the ASI evacuated them but they continued to use it as a dumping ground and as a toilet and the state of disrepair bears testimony to it.

      ye aur baat ki ‘aKHtar’ haveliyaa.n na rahiin
      khanDar men kam to nahiin apnii aabruu raushan

      It has been built in the austere style of rubble masonry. Sir Syed describes it as strong and ugly . No doubt it is sans any embellishment we are used to seeing in medieval buildings but there is a grandeur in its starkness to me

      Some of the walls have fallen to let the sun in

       

      har shaKHs yahaan gumbad-e-be-dar kii tarah hai
      aavaaz pe aavaaz do suntaa nahiin koii

      The mosque contains 64 domes, with one central one with a height of 9ft.

      The domes today afford a place for lOcals to hang out in and at dusk to ‘party’.


      khaDaa huun zer-e-falak gumbad-e-sadaa men ‘muniir’
      ke jaise haath uThaa ho koii duaa ke liye


      On the roof.

      A view from the top. The five domes in the rear belong to the ladies mosque

      The Begumpur Mosque is known as the first Indian example of the “Brhatmukhi” mosque type: at the center of the 24 arches on its main façade, an extremely large arch stands out, flanked by massive tapering pylon-minarets.

      Resting after the climb up the steep, narrow and dark stairs to the roof

      Up close with the main dome

      This is the mehrab in the Mullah Khana : possibly a rare ladies mosque attached to Begumpur. Unfortunately its used as a toilet by the locals. I had to cover my nose to overcome the stench there and having failed to see clearly in the dark stepped on filth and dirtied my shoes.

      What was once a mehrab now bears testimony to some Raakhee’s self obsession or her admirer’s stupidity.

      The inside of the ladies mosque.

      I cannot describe my feelings at seeing such deep dosdain for our architectural heritage and magnificent places of worship.

      A mute spectator to what must have once been glory days

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      Rana Safvi

      Come, explore and fall in love the Beauties of Delhi (Dilli ki Ranaiya’n) and the World with me, Rana Safvi

      I have a masters in medieval history from the prestigious Centre for Advanced Studies, Dept. of History, AMU. A firm believer in our Ganga Jamuni Tehzeeb, I am passionate about gaining and sharing knowledge and these days I am doing it via the social media platform.

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