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    Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones), Nasirid Palaces, Alhambra, Spain

    Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones), Nasirid Palaces, Alhambra, Spain

    Angels in murals on Badal Mahal, Bundi Fort

    Angels in murals on Badal Mahal, Bundi Fort

    The Gazelle vase in Alhambra, Granada, Spain

    The Gazelle vase in Alhambra, Granada, Spain

    The Court of the Lions in Nasirid Palace Alhambra, Granada, Spain

    The Court of the Lions in Nasirid Palace Alhambra, Granada, Spain

    Confluence not Erasure: The Church of El Salvador in Toledo, Spain

    Confluence not Erasure: The Church of El Salvador in Toledo, Spain

    Mezquita/Cathedral del Cristo de la Luz – Where Architecture Tells a Tale

    Mezquita/Cathedral del Cristo de la Luz – Where Architecture Tells a Tale

    The Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca In Toledo, Spain—often called the “City of Three Cultures”

    The Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca In Toledo, Spain—often called the “City of Three Cultures”

    East Side Gallery, Berlin

    Neptune Fountain in Berlin

    Neptune Fountain in Berlin

    Aligarh’s Jama Masjid

    Aligarh’s Jama Masjid

    Darbar of Guru Ram Rai in Dehradun

    Darbar of Guru Ram Rai in Dehradun

    Lord Buddha’s sermon in Kausambi, Allahabad and the Fortress

    Lord Buddha’s sermon in Kausambi, Allahabad and the Fortress

    Abu Serga Church, Cairo

    Abu Serga Church, Cairo

    The Exquisite Badal Mahal in Bundi Part 1

    The Exquisite Badal Mahal in Bundi Part 1

    Jhanjhiri Mosque in Jaunpur

    Jhanjhiri Mosque in Jaunpur

    Gurudwara Lekhensar Sahib‬ in Talwandi Sabo

    Gurudwara Lekhensar Sahib‬ in Talwandi Sabo

    Ulugh Beg’s Observatory in Samarqand, Uzbekistan

    Ulugh Beg’s Observatory in Samarqand, Uzbekistan

    Rani Ki Baori, Bundi, Rajasthan

    Rani Ki Baori, Bundi, Rajasthan

    Bundi Fort, Rajasthan

    Bundi Fort, Rajasthan

    Rock Paintings in Bundi, Rajasthan

    Rock Paintings in Bundi, Rajasthan

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      Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones), Nasirid Palaces, Alhambra, Spain

      Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones), Nasirid Palaces, Alhambra, Spain

      Angels in murals on Badal Mahal, Bundi Fort

      Angels in murals on Badal Mahal, Bundi Fort

      The Gazelle vase in Alhambra, Granada, Spain

      The Gazelle vase in Alhambra, Granada, Spain

      The Court of the Lions in Nasirid Palace Alhambra, Granada, Spain

      The Court of the Lions in Nasirid Palace Alhambra, Granada, Spain

      Confluence not Erasure: The Church of El Salvador in Toledo, Spain

      Confluence not Erasure: The Church of El Salvador in Toledo, Spain

      Mezquita/Cathedral del Cristo de la Luz – Where Architecture Tells a Tale

      Mezquita/Cathedral del Cristo de la Luz – Where Architecture Tells a Tale

      The Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca In Toledo, Spain—often called the “City of Three Cultures”

      The Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca In Toledo, Spain—often called the “City of Three Cultures”

      East Side Gallery, Berlin

      Neptune Fountain in Berlin

      Neptune Fountain in Berlin

      Aligarh’s Jama Masjid

      Aligarh’s Jama Masjid

      Darbar of Guru Ram Rai in Dehradun

      Darbar of Guru Ram Rai in Dehradun

      Lord Buddha’s sermon in Kausambi, Allahabad and the Fortress

      Lord Buddha’s sermon in Kausambi, Allahabad and the Fortress

      Abu Serga Church, Cairo

      Abu Serga Church, Cairo

      The Exquisite Badal Mahal in Bundi Part 1

      The Exquisite Badal Mahal in Bundi Part 1

      Jhanjhiri Mosque in Jaunpur

      Jhanjhiri Mosque in Jaunpur

      Gurudwara Lekhensar Sahib‬ in Talwandi Sabo

      Gurudwara Lekhensar Sahib‬ in Talwandi Sabo

      Ulugh Beg’s Observatory in Samarqand, Uzbekistan

      Ulugh Beg’s Observatory in Samarqand, Uzbekistan

      Rani Ki Baori, Bundi, Rajasthan

      Rani Ki Baori, Bundi, Rajasthan

      Bundi Fort, Rajasthan

      Bundi Fort, Rajasthan

      Rock Paintings in Bundi, Rajasthan

      Rock Paintings in Bundi, Rajasthan

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      The Bibi Khanum Mosque, Samarqand, Uzbekistan

      inMy Travels
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      One thing that doesn’t change are the tall stories told by guides. We had our share of them in Uzbekistan too!
      Our guide told us a fanciful story of Bibi Khanum, Timur’s wife, who supposedly built this mosque as a present for her husband who was returning victorious from his campaigns & the architect who wanted a kiss to complete it.
      Over the years i have learnt to switch my mind off around guides, so i don’t remember it all.
      I also knew that it was built by Timur on his return from India. Also that in 1398 after conquering Delhi he offered his Friday prayers at one of my favourite mosques, the Jami Masjid of Firoz Shah Kotla.
      That mosque is now in ruins but it was one of the seven mosques built in the reign of Firuz Shah Tughlaq and was so magnificent that Timur took many artisans and elephants to build a similar mosque in Samarqand.
      When I entered the Bibi Khanum mosque (1399-1404), opposite her mausoleum, it was with these memories.

      The first thing that struck me was its similarity to the Sharqi mosques of Jaunpur. The high pishtaq (a rectangular frame around an arched opening) and the dome peeping behind it. Since the Firoz Shah kotla mosque is in ruins I had nothing to compare with.

      the Begumpur mosque

      the Sharqi mosque
      Apart from that there’s no comparison as the Tughlaq and Sharqi mosques were made on solid stone, without surface decoration such as seen here.
      The glorious blue tiles against the blazing sun are really a sight to behold.

      Timur’s mosque was so ambitious and so huge that the double dome collapsed within a hundred years. It has been repaired a number of times but when we visited it, it was locked & again undergoing conservation. I peeped in to see mud walls and a muddy mihrab.
      A contemporary chronicler notes that Timur brought in architects from Iran and India for the project and used ninety-five elephants to haul construction material.
      The mosques of Iran are also decorated in blue tiles.
      Scholars suggest, “Timur’s mosque was designed not only to continue Iranian imperial tradition, but also to symbolize his conquest of the world.”
      The galleries on the sides in Bobi Khanum mosque have broken and stumps of the foundation pillars can be seen. All the three mosques were built as a central domed chamber with a high pishtaq and galleries on three sides with smaller domed entrances.

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      Rana Safvi

      Come, explore and fall in love the Beauties of Delhi (Dilli ki Ranaiya’n) and the World with me, Rana Safvi

      I have a masters in medieval history from the prestigious Centre for Advanced Studies, Dept. of History, AMU. A firm believer in our Ganga Jamuni Tehzeeb, I am passionate about gaining and sharing knowledge and these days I am doing it via the social media platform.

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