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    My favorite artworks from European Museums

    My favorite artworks from European Museums

    Gandhara Art in Humboldt Forum: Life of Lord Buddha

    Gandhara Art in Humboldt Forum: Life of Lord Buddha

    Jewish Heroes Square in Krakow, Poland

    Jewish Heroes Square in Krakow, Poland

    Block no. 4 in Auschwitz concentration camp

    Block no. 4 in Auschwitz concentration camp

    Ottoman tent in Princess Czartoryski Museum in Krakow, Poland

    Ottoman tent in Princess Czartoryski Museum in Krakow, Poland

    The Steam Engine Building, Potsdam, Germany

    The Steam Engine Building, Potsdam, Germany

    Assyrian human-headed winged bull from Nimrud; 9th cent. BCE; Pergamon Museum, Berlin

    Assyrian human-headed winged bull from Nimrud; 9th cent. BCE; Pergamon Museum, Berlin

    Catacombs in St Peter’s Abbey Salzburg, Austria

    Catacombs in St Peter’s Abbey Salzburg, Austria

    St Nicholas Church in #Leipzeg, #Germany

    St Nicholas Church in #Leipzeg, #Germany

    Gloriette, Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna,Austria

    Gloriette, Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna,Austria

    Matthias Church on Buda Castle Hill, Budapest

    Matthias Church on Buda Castle Hill, Budapest

    The Neptune fountain in Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria

    The Neptune fountain in Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria

    The Dohany Street synagogue in Budapest

    St Peter’s Abbey Church in Salzburg, Austria

    St Peter’s Abbey Church in Salzburg, Austria

    The Residence Fountain in Salzburg: Oundof Music

    The Residence Fountain in Salzburg: Oundof Music

    Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

    Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

    Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

    Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

    Jahan koshan cannon, Murshidabad

    Jahan koshan cannon, Murshidabad

    Takht-e Marar, Golestan Palance, Teheran, Iran

    Takht-e Marar, Golestan Palance, Teheran, Iran

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      • Walks & Talks
      • Rana’s Space
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    • Travel
      My favorite artworks from European Museums

      My favorite artworks from European Museums

      Gandhara Art in Humboldt Forum: Life of Lord Buddha

      Gandhara Art in Humboldt Forum: Life of Lord Buddha

      Jewish Heroes Square in Krakow, Poland

      Jewish Heroes Square in Krakow, Poland

      Block no. 4 in Auschwitz concentration camp

      Block no. 4 in Auschwitz concentration camp

      Ottoman tent in Princess Czartoryski Museum in Krakow, Poland

      Ottoman tent in Princess Czartoryski Museum in Krakow, Poland

      The Steam Engine Building, Potsdam, Germany

      The Steam Engine Building, Potsdam, Germany

      Assyrian human-headed winged bull from Nimrud; 9th cent. BCE; Pergamon Museum, Berlin

      Assyrian human-headed winged bull from Nimrud; 9th cent. BCE; Pergamon Museum, Berlin

      Catacombs in St Peter’s Abbey Salzburg, Austria

      Catacombs in St Peter’s Abbey Salzburg, Austria

      St Nicholas Church in #Leipzeg, #Germany

      St Nicholas Church in #Leipzeg, #Germany

      Gloriette, Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna,Austria

      Gloriette, Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna,Austria

      Matthias Church on Buda Castle Hill, Budapest

      Matthias Church on Buda Castle Hill, Budapest

      The Neptune fountain in Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria

      The Neptune fountain in Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria

      The Dohany Street synagogue in Budapest

      St Peter’s Abbey Church in Salzburg, Austria

      St Peter’s Abbey Church in Salzburg, Austria

      The Residence Fountain in Salzburg: Oundof Music

      The Residence Fountain in Salzburg: Oundof Music

      Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

      Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

      Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

      Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

      Jahan koshan cannon, Murshidabad

      Jahan koshan cannon, Murshidabad

      Takht-e Marar, Golestan Palance, Teheran, Iran

      Takht-e Marar, Golestan Palance, Teheran, Iran

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      A walk in the City of Djinns

      inHazrat-E-Dilli
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      10th September 2014

      IMG_2205.JPG
      Whenever I have any free time in Delhi I love to connect with Asif Khan Dehelvi and go exploring in Delhi.
      10th was no different. Having finished some work in the afternoon I joined Asif in CP and we started exploring options. Red Fort would be closing in a little while, Begumpur was too far, so we decided to go to Firoz Shah Kotla.
      My first visit to this hauntingly beautiful place had also been with Asif and I was looking forward to another equally wonderful visit.
      Ferozabad as it was known was Delhi’s fifth city built by Firoz Shah Tughlaq on the banks of the Yamuna River in in the village of Gawin in 1354. Today popularly known as Firoz Shah Kotla, it is eclipsed by the stadium of the same name, near it.
      Though today it is in ruins it must hsve been a majestic fort in its time. Its stones were stripped for the building of the 6th city of Shahjahanabad.

      The grand entrance leading to the diwan e aam , going on to diwan e khaas and then the palaces today bear mute testimony to their former grandeur.
      It was used by the Mughals as a prototype for their forts.

      It was to this city that Firoz Shah Tughlaq brought Ashoka’s pillar from Tobra, near present Ambala, which he had seen on one of his travels.
      The journey of that pillar to Ferozabad is another story for another day.

      IMG_2201.JPG
      However, this city’s claim to fame is neither its past majesty nor the beautiful pillar but the resident spirits or Djinns who grant wishes and who have many devotees in and around the area as well as further away.
      It doesnot matter what time of the day you go there you will see incense sticks and diyas/ lamps and candles burning in various nooks and corners of the place as well as in the underground areas.

      IMG_2198-0.JPG
      It has a grand functioning mosque which was built by Firoz Shah Tughlaq’s Prime Minister, Khan e Jahan. It is one of 7 mosques that he built in Delhi. There used to be a madarsa attached to it , with underground rooms for students and teachers to stay in, which is today believed to be populated by the Djinns and is always lit with lamps and incense sticks.


      It is Built on a high plinth and steep steps lead up to it. There is a huge courtyard surrounded by walls and as in the case of Begumpur Mosque also built by Khan e Jahan
      , once upon a time the side aisles must have been covered by small domes. Today they are no longer extant but we can conjecture.
      There are Imams appointed by Delhi Waqf Board to lead prayers here and they can usually be found in one of the niches in the wall.

      IMG_2203.JPG
      As per Islam Djinns are created from smokeless fire and were created before man. In fact when Iblees the chief Djinn was asked to prostrate to Adam he refused on the grounds that he , originating from fire, was superior to Adam who was made from clay. This led to his fall from grace and becoming the accursed Satan.
      Jinn is a plural noun in Arabic literally meaning “hidden from sight”, and it derives from Arabic root j-n-n (pronounced: jann/ junn جَنّ / جُنّ) meaning “to hide” or “be hidden”.
      As in human race, there are good and bad Djinns. The word genie who fulfills ones wishes comes from the Arabic djinn and in folk lore have great powers to grant wishes.
      The village my ancestors come from was established by Jalaluddin Khilji and has a mosque dating to back then. I have grown up hearing stories of Djinn Mamus from my grandmother and other relatives. We have a Djinn waali masjid there and of course many tales.
      Therefore I have a very open mind towards the spirits and do my utmost to respect the traditions of the place.
      When I was asked by a lady in white, sitting in one of the rooms to take my slippers off and enter, I did.
      She seemed a kindly soul and was deeply immersed in prayers herself and promised to pray for me too.
      When prayers are fulfilled people bring offerings of food, sweets and flowers and Thursday is the day to be there.


      A mannat fulfilled.

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      Rana Safvi

      Come, explore and fall in love the Beauties of Delhi (Dilli ki Ranaiya’n) and the World with me, Rana Safvi

      I have a masters in medieval history from the prestigious Centre for Advanced Studies, Dept. of History, AMU. A firm believer in our Ganga Jamuni Tehzeeb, I am passionate about gaining and sharing knowledge and these days I am doing it via the social media platform.

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      © 2018 Rana Safvi - A blog Exploring Ganga Jamuni Tehzeeb of India, website handcrafted by Abu Sufiyan.