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    My favorite artworks from European Museums

    My favorite artworks from European Museums

    Gandhara Art in Humboldt Forum: Life of Lord Buddha

    Gandhara Art in Humboldt Forum: Life of Lord Buddha

    Jewish Heroes Square in Krakow, Poland

    Jewish Heroes Square in Krakow, Poland

    Block no. 4 in Auschwitz concentration camp

    Block no. 4 in Auschwitz concentration camp

    Ottoman tent in Princess Czartoryski Museum in Krakow, Poland

    Ottoman tent in Princess Czartoryski Museum in Krakow, Poland

    The Steam Engine Building, Potsdam, Germany

    The Steam Engine Building, Potsdam, Germany

    Assyrian human-headed winged bull from Nimrud; 9th cent. BCE; Pergamon Museum, Berlin

    Assyrian human-headed winged bull from Nimrud; 9th cent. BCE; Pergamon Museum, Berlin

    Catacombs in St Peter’s Abbey Salzburg, Austria

    Catacombs in St Peter’s Abbey Salzburg, Austria

    St Nicholas Church in #Leipzeg, #Germany

    St Nicholas Church in #Leipzeg, #Germany

    Gloriette, Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna,Austria

    Gloriette, Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna,Austria

    Matthias Church on Buda Castle Hill, Budapest

    Matthias Church on Buda Castle Hill, Budapest

    The Neptune fountain in Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria

    The Neptune fountain in Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria

    The Dohany Street synagogue in Budapest

    St Peter’s Abbey Church in Salzburg, Austria

    St Peter’s Abbey Church in Salzburg, Austria

    The Residence Fountain in Salzburg: Oundof Music

    The Residence Fountain in Salzburg: Oundof Music

    Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

    Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

    Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

    Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

    Jahan koshan cannon, Murshidabad

    Jahan koshan cannon, Murshidabad

    Takht-e Marar, Golestan Palance, Teheran, Iran

    Takht-e Marar, Golestan Palance, Teheran, Iran

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    • Travel
      My favorite artworks from European Museums

      My favorite artworks from European Museums

      Gandhara Art in Humboldt Forum: Life of Lord Buddha

      Gandhara Art in Humboldt Forum: Life of Lord Buddha

      Jewish Heroes Square in Krakow, Poland

      Jewish Heroes Square in Krakow, Poland

      Block no. 4 in Auschwitz concentration camp

      Block no. 4 in Auschwitz concentration camp

      Ottoman tent in Princess Czartoryski Museum in Krakow, Poland

      Ottoman tent in Princess Czartoryski Museum in Krakow, Poland

      The Steam Engine Building, Potsdam, Germany

      The Steam Engine Building, Potsdam, Germany

      Assyrian human-headed winged bull from Nimrud; 9th cent. BCE; Pergamon Museum, Berlin

      Assyrian human-headed winged bull from Nimrud; 9th cent. BCE; Pergamon Museum, Berlin

      Catacombs in St Peter’s Abbey Salzburg, Austria

      Catacombs in St Peter’s Abbey Salzburg, Austria

      St Nicholas Church in #Leipzeg, #Germany

      St Nicholas Church in #Leipzeg, #Germany

      Gloriette, Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna,Austria

      Gloriette, Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna,Austria

      Matthias Church on Buda Castle Hill, Budapest

      Matthias Church on Buda Castle Hill, Budapest

      The Neptune fountain in Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria

      The Neptune fountain in Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria

      The Dohany Street synagogue in Budapest

      St Peter’s Abbey Church in Salzburg, Austria

      St Peter’s Abbey Church in Salzburg, Austria

      The Residence Fountain in Salzburg: Oundof Music

      The Residence Fountain in Salzburg: Oundof Music

      Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

      Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

      Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

      Sultana Daku and Raj Bhawan of Nainital

      Jahan koshan cannon, Murshidabad

      Jahan koshan cannon, Murshidabad

      Takht-e Marar, Golestan Palance, Teheran, Iran

      Takht-e Marar, Golestan Palance, Teheran, Iran

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      The Delhi Golf Club and its Monuments

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      The Delhi Golf Club, a municipal course in the early 1930s became a corporate entity in 24th February 1950. Situated on the erstwhile Mughal lands known as Babarpur it was built around the existing monuments.

      I knew that there were three important tombs inside Delhi Golf Club but nothing prepared me for the veritable feast of the senses for a monument lover like me.

      The Lal Bangla as the tomb complex of Lal Kanwar, the mother of Shah Alam II and his daughter BehumJaan is visible from the road itself.


      It’s in a separate compound maintained by the ASI and can be easily accessed fronts parking lot.

      There’s was a gateway here as per Maulvi Zafar Hadan but that’s no longer visible.


      That these are female graves can be seen from the takhti on the top.

      There is another building which is much bigger but has no tombs inside.


      After exploring it to my hearts content and even climbing on top of both the monuments I decided to venture inside.

      Saiyyed Abid a Jahangiri noble was also buried here. His tomb is mentioned and can be seen from the top of Lal Bangla

      This is a simple tomb and with the golfers near it doesn’t give a sense of the stillness of frsth but a vibrancy of life.


      I went to the office of the Club and the Secretary very kindly arranged for me to have a conducted tour of the premises.

      Mr Singh who has been working with the club for 35 years took me around on a golf cart. I was like a child in a toffee shop. So many riches all around me.

      We passed by Saiyyed Abid’s tomb and stopped in front of a vaulted one. The graves have disappeared but the building stands.



      The winding and very sloping dirt track led me to one of the prettiest tombs I’ve seen known as Barakhamba because of its 12 pillars. Originally built in the shape of a cross now only 3 side compartments remain of the four.theres a single grave in the middle compartment and it is hauntingly beautiful.

      Situated at hole 17


      The scars on this side and the stumps of the pillars show where the fourth side compartment would have been.

      According toMaulvi Zafar Hasan it is of Lodi era.

      My golf cart was very handy as it was a hot day in May,

      The pillar stump


      Another short ride on the golf cart over verdant green grass and we were in front of another beautiful Unknown tomb of Mughal vintage.

      This was originally a Baghichi or small garden with enclosing walks and a low arched doorway. Those have probably given way to the greens.

      The ceiling has definitely been repainted recently but it’s been very aesthetically done.

      T

      The walls and side shave also been attractively redone.


      By now I thought we had seen everything but Delhi Golf Club had many more treasures buried inside it.

      This is an early Mughal tomb. Octagonal from outside and square inside.

      The ceiling has been repainted but the original itself must have been attractive from the markings.

      On all four entrances there are guldaan or flower vase designs which in its original state must have been a riot of colours.

      Painstakingly decorated for the after life!


      The delicate work on the outer casing of the tomb and the inner floral patterns clearly visible were very pretty.

      Some random walls and graves with which the Golf club is dotted.



      From here we went to what was once the Baghichi or walked garden. Today only one wall with its imposing gateway stands. There’s a tomb inside in front of which a swimming pool has been built and drinks are served.


      Well we still weren’t done. This area was known as Babarpur and was a thriving necropolis. Of course a mosque was needed and my guide too me to one. Perhaps attached to a tomb no longer extant.its also Mughal era.


      A short drive and we found glimpses of brown behind some undergrowth. That was the last tomb of the day. But what a day it was!

      I have described the monuments as per popular conception. More details based on my research will be in my forthcoming book next year InshaAllah

      Where Stones Speak II

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      Rana Safvi

      Come, explore and fall in love the Beauties of Delhi (Dilli ki Ranaiya’n) and the World with me, Rana Safvi

      I have a masters in medieval history from the prestigious Centre for Advanced Studies, Dept. of History, AMU. A firm believer in our Ganga Jamuni Tehzeeb, I am passionate about gaining and sharing knowledge and these days I am doing it via the social media platform.

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      © 2018 Rana Safvi - A blog Exploring Ganga Jamuni Tehzeeb of India, website handcrafted by Abu Sufiyan.